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So I happen to have an extra 1/2 barrel sanke keg that came with my used kegerator when I bought it a couple years ago. I'd like to convert it a fermenter maybe. I saw one pic of @Djsethall 's and they appeared to be laying on the side? I'm curious how this works.
Is it under pressure or do you have an air lock?
How is cleaning done?
How is transferring done?
How is dry hopping done?
All the jazz thanks."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
i bought a triclamp and a blank cover to go over the top of the bung after the spear assembly was removed. i drilled two holes in the blank, into one i welded a pipe stub, onto which i can attach a blow off tube or a co2 line for pressurized transfer. the other hole has a racking cane fitted through it. i have an o-ring seal on the racking cane. i'll take some pictures and post them next time i get out to the garage. i would likely do the racking cane seal slightly differently if i were to make another one, just because the way i made it was difficult. but other than that it works very well.
i use my sitting upright, like a normal keg. overall there are no modifications to the keg shell.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
chandlerbang said:
My initial thought is to invert it and weld appropriate fittings into it to basically make it a conical. But I don't know.
they dont have a deep enough draw on the ends to function like a true conical.
The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
Lakewood said:
i bought a triclamp and a blank cover to go over the top of the bung after the spear assembly was removed. i drilled two holes in the blank, into one i welded a pipe stub, onto which i can attach a blow off tube or a co2 line for pressurized transfer. the other hole has a racking cane fitted through it. i have an o-ring seal on the racking cane. i'll take some pictures and post them next time i get out to the garage. i would likely do the racking cane seal slightly differently if i were to make another one, just because the way i made it was difficult. but other than that it works very well.
i use my sitting upright, like a normal keg. overall there are no modifications to the keg shell.
How difficult is it to clean???Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity. -
ceannt said:Lakewood said:
i bought a triclamp and a blank cover to go over the top of the bung after the spear assembly was removed. i drilled two holes in the blank, into one i welded a pipe stub, onto which i can attach a blow off tube or a co2 line for pressurized transfer. the other hole has a racking cane fitted through it. i have an o-ring seal on the racking cane. i'll take some pictures and post them next time i get out to the garage. i would likely do the racking cane seal slightly differently if i were to make another one, just because the way i made it was difficult. but other than that it works very well.
i use my sitting upright, like a normal keg. overall there are no modifications to the keg shell.
How difficult is it to clean???
This for sure.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
Lakewood said:
i bought a triclamp and a blank cover to go over the top of the bung after the spear assembly was removed. i drilled two holes in the blank, into one i welded a pipe stub, onto which i can attach a blow off tube or a co2 line for pressurized transfer. the other hole has a racking cane fitted through it. i have an o-ring seal on the racking cane. i'll take some pictures and post them next time i get out to the garage. i would likely do the racking cane seal slightly differently if i were to make another one, just because the way i made it was difficult. but other than that it works very well.
i use my sitting upright, like a normal keg. overall there are no modifications to the keg shell.
Pics would be great. This seems pretty simple.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
chandlerbang said:ceannt said:Lakewood said:
i bought a triclamp and a blank cover to go over the top of the bung after the spear assembly was removed. i drilled two holes in the blank, into one i welded a pipe stub, onto which i can attach a blow off tube or a co2 line for pressurized transfer. the other hole has a racking cane fitted through it. i have an o-ring seal on the racking cane. i'll take some pictures and post them next time i get out to the garage. i would likely do the racking cane seal slightly differently if i were to make another one, just because the way i made it was difficult. but other than that it works very well.
i use my sitting upright, like a normal keg. overall there are no modifications to the keg shell.
How difficult is it to clean???
This for sure.
I have cleaned using various methods. Hot pbw and rolling around seems to work really well. If there is anything stuck and not breaking free i will throw a lb of rock salt in there and roll it around some more. That pretty much works everytime.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
I saw one that a guy cut the top off as for a keggle..... made a big rubber gasket .... and clamped a big Plexiglas lid on it.... would make cleaning easy ..... but.... not sold on the IdeaNever attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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First, you will need a horse. I built this out of standard 2x4 construction. Exact dimensions are not needed, just build something to hold the keg at about a 15 degree angle or so. You want the yeast to settle and slide down to the bottom. You'll see why in a second.IMG_20120608_205502.jpg2592 x 1944 - 999K
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Next up is the sanitary fitting. Sanke kegs have a modified tri-clover type of clamp setup. It is a little thicker than the standard ones but it does work. You may need to grind the fitting down a hair or widen the gap in the tri-clamp ring. The beginning was a blank 2" sanitary plug. I had the local metal shop drill and tap a 3/8" NPT fitting in the middle of the plug. I then ordered a 3/8" instrument fitting from graingers. This allows you to turn the tube without breaking the seal. The tube is 3/8" OD tube (stainless of course). It is shaped in a U, sort of. This allows for a siphon effect to take place once the tube is turned. Turn the tube until you get heavy yeast, back it off a hair until it is clear.IMG_20120608_205515.jpg2592 x 1944 - 864K
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The hole in the top is just simply drilled or cut with a plasma torch like this one. You want to go with a larger bung. This is an 11. This allows another small access hole for cleaning. You will end up with about 1/2 to 1 gallons of head room. I haven't ever had to use a blowoff setup.IMG_20120608_205522.jpg2592 x 1944 - 748K
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This is a pic of a golden gate style keg with the wooden bung removed. It made the perfect port for a size 11 bung. Cleaning is performed by using hot water and one scoop of an oxy based cleaner per 5 gallons of water. I usually leave it outside overnight for a day or two. If you have nasties after two days of soaking, you can hit it with a standard carboy brush. Then soak again. You can use a dental mirror to look inside while anglining the other hole into sun light or use a flashlight. Then it gets a nice rinse of hose water before I bring it inside. After rinsing with tap water, I mix a small amount of Star San and about a half gallon of water.IMG_20120608_205528.jpg2592 x 1944 - 872K
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Here is a pic of a golden gate style. The sanitary fitting is recessed on these and will not allow a tri-clamp to ft inside the recess. I had the local welding shop use a keg top from one of the keggles and weld it to the top of the GG keg. An angle grinder and marking it for the welder is a good idea. Any other questions?IMG_20120608_205534.jpg2592 x 1944 - 708K
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I do fill the siphon tube with sanitizer or whiskey if I have it around the house. I also use these as primaries and don't worry too much about yeast as it sits for awhile longer in glass. Before anyone asks, I use secondaries as brite tanks, not actual secondary fermentations...... yet
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djsethall said:
I also attach the racking can backwards to the stainless siphon tube. This allows me to control the flow using the cane lock and fill from the bottom which I have heard is best. I realy don't know if there is a difference, but that's what the pros do.
djsethall said:Self priming siphon yes. Fill through siphon tube, no. I fill it through the bunghole, bunghole
Can you explain this then? I assumed you meant when going to the fermenter you filled through the fermenters siphon tube."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
I fill it through the bunghole on the top, where the airlock is. I use a pump through a chilling block and into the fermenter it goes. I get it all clean and sanitized, set the pig on its horse, fill the siphon tube with an alcoholic beverage (whiskey. vodka etc.). This is my seal against nasties. I also cover the siphon tube with some foil and a small holed stopper over the foil for extra measures against infections. Does that explain it enough? I think there is a video somewhere. I have upgraded to a water line chiller now. Works just like a plate chiller.
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I'm sorry, I meant to clarify this. What are you doing with the racking cane here? I don't get what you mean hook up the cane backwards. If it is explained in the video I can't see I'll look at it when I get home in the AM.djsethall said:I also attach the racking can backwards to the stainless siphon tube. This allows me to control the flow using the cane lock and fill from the bottom which I have heard is best. I realy don't know if there is a difference, but that's what the pros do.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
Ahhhh, I get yer question now. When I rack to secondary, I hook up my racking cane tubing to the fermenter's siphon tube and then turn the siphon tube down. The racking cane itself goes into a glass carboy and fills the carboy from the bottom up. It's like racking in reverse as I am filling the carboy with the racking cane instead of using the racking cane to empty the carboy into kegs or bottles. I need to make a video of racking. The process is super easy.
Keg fermenter questions
