What Scoob said, Happy to help!

Djsethall said:

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click on the star off to the right side of the thread puts it on your email notifications. ask me how i know.  b-(

Can someone post here OS I can see that the notification works?

Bam. right in the kisser.

Drink it

not really a help thing, just want your take on this. i don't make many lagers, i'm an ale man. but sometimes i will whip up a premium american lager for some of my lagery friends.
anyway, i make this really simple lager, here is the recipe
6 lbs briess light DME
1/2 yakima magnum @ 60
1 oz centennial @ 2
whirlfloc
saflager 23 dry yeast

pretty much the most basic recipe in existence. however, i have made this three times and all three times, no airlock activity at all! it doesn't even push the little cup up to the top. it always ferments though. primary ferm temp is 58.
i know, i know, "your bucket is leaking air", but i have checked that, and checked how the airlock is seated, and switched airlocks. always turns into a decent, basic lager.

thoughts???

i agree. can it phase through the water if it is really slow? some of my ciders do this, very little airlock activity, but i can always see the co2 dissolving in the airlock vodka even though the airlock isn't bubbling.

Sorry, my phone was messed up and not receiving emails.

Water can't be pressurized

Djsethall said:

The pressure is in the small gas layer at the top of the keg. IMHO I would never ferment in a cornie keg. Have you seen my fermenter setup?

i use buckets.

Yeah, thats what I meant

4 ounces to 5 gallons should get you 2.4 volumes. I wouldnt go above 5 ounces per 5 gallons or you get bottle bombs

frydogbrews said:

this is the thing though, swing tops are rated to handle 4 volumes, and i want a super carbonated cyser for extra sparkle. what i am trying to figure out is how much corn cugar it takes to get to 4 volumes.

Based on the Tastybrew Calculator it's 8.5 oz to get 4 volumes.

http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html

Belgian dark candi sugar goes into the boil? Correct? And at what time?

hi, i need help. my beer tastes too good. its a problem for my career.

Test.

What size hose should I buy for my 61/2 gallon carboy. ( for a blow off tube)
I need a timely response. Please.

Bung Hole

djsethall said:

I would go with 3/8 vinyl and it should fit the bung

Thanks your the man! But can't I just buy a big hose and jam it in?

I'll buy the 3/8 but I think it will blow the bung! I've gone thru 3 airlocks In under two hours.

So get a clean cloth soaked in sanitizer, clean up what you can being careful to use fresh cloth area for each wipe. This is a borderline maneuver as your beer is open to the air for a moment or two. It can be done if done carefully.

I generally will let it sit for a minute or two and allow the hop bag to sit fully in the wort. As it chills, the aromatics come from the hops and into the wort.

It depends. Did you put it into low temp storage? You could get a microscope and a hectocytometer with some blue dye and test the viability of the yeast. I hope this helps. You could always make a new starter and check for krausen after a few days off ferment.

Go for it try making a fresh starter

Second stage

i would aerate a little and re pitch, but i don't like sweeter finishing beers.

Did you taste it? Is it sweet? If yes, try aerating slightly, and pitch a high gravity or champagne yeast.

It's even more effective if you make a starter, and pitch the starter at high krausen.

djsethall said:

I generally will let it sit for a minute or two and allow the hop bag to sit fully in the wort. As it chills, the aromatics come from the hops and into the wort.

Do you use hop bags for all additions. I am pretty new and actually go back and forth. If the receipe calls for only one or two additions, then I bag it. If it is a bunch, basically I don't have a bunch of bags, so I don't bother. Should I get more bags?

djsethall said:

Benvarine said:

djsethall said:

I generally will let it sit for a minute or two and allow the hop bag to sit fully in the wort. As it chills, the aromatics come from the hops and into the wort.

Do you use hop bags for all additions. I am pretty new and actually go back and forth. If the receipe calls for only one or two additions, then I bag it. If it is a bunch, basically I don't have a bunch of bags, so I don't bother. Should I get more bags?

If you are thinking it'd buying more equipment, the answer is always yes

nice

ya i need a yeast strain for my RIS

recipe is in the forum

Please Help

Planning on brewing my rye ipa this weekend. I need to finalize the recipe and could use final advice on hops during late addition and dry hop. Any advice would be great.

http://www.homebrewforums.net/discussion/205/rye-ipa-recipe-critique-needed#Item_21

Cascade and centennial have been a mainstay. I've recently been introducing Palisade in the mix for similar applications.

With all the cascade and centennial, why not go for the gusto

Are you putting the hops in a bag? I just throw them into the carboy without a bag. When I rack to keg or bottling, the caning generally filters out the floating hops

FromZwolle said:

jlw said:

Squeeze or not squeeze the hop bag after a long dry hop?

squeeze that motha! just sanitize whatever you use to squeeze it.

I did. It seemed a waste to leave all that wonderfully hopped beer in the hops.

They are pellets. But still

brewing question: can an IPA ever not be dry hopped?

most ipa's aren't dry hopped actually. which is why many ipa's suck donkey butt.
all AIPA's are supposed to be dry hopped, but the sweeter, english ones are not, typically.

I was going to use my question as a segue to a more specific dry hopping scenario, but since i see there hasn't been a thread for it yet, i'll just start a new one.

hmmm...rakau is new to me, but i would bomb that thing with citra

FromZwolle said:

frydogbrews said:

hmmm...rakau is new to me, but i would bomb that thing with citra

i was leaning towards citra, but... just to spite you, i may not dry hop at all. ;)

please send me all the hops you don't use.

I think if you step it up now with a fresh vial it should be going solid by pitching time. You may have to pitch at high krausen instead of chilling and decanting (what I normally try to do). But that won't hurt anything.

chandlerbang said:

I think if you step it up now with a fresh vial it should be going solid by pitching time. You may have to pitch at high krausen instead of chilling and decanting (what I normally try to do). But that won't hurt anything.

So, get the starter going tonight and then tomorrow night add another liter of DME?

chandlerbang said:

Wait, when are you brewing? Do you have a stirplate or simple starter?

Simple with the walk by and shake method. I brew on Sunday.

Oh I see the problem. I didn't read the OG correctly. On my stirplate I would pitch the vial into a one liter starter tonight and (assuming it is active) drop another liter of starter wort in it tomorrow morning. I don't think there is enough time to chill and decant though.... Depending on when you brew. Or pitch it all at high krausen.

jlw said:

FromZwolle said:

jlw said:

chandlerbang said:

Wait, when are you brewing? Do you have a stirplate or simple starter?

Simple with the walk by and shake method. I brew on Sunday.

cutting it close for that big ris, but i think you'll be alright as long as its a fresh vial.

That's what I'm worried about. I have a packet of champagne yeast I could also use. I'm worried about a stalled fermentation. I had one of those on another RIS.

Definitely a concern. With fresh yeast and two steps I think it'll be fine. But it isn't my beer.

That's good enough.

i need help when ya coming over

Lakewood said:

Lothos said:

i need help when ya coming over

crying wolf i see.

not wolf just seeing if i get a response

Lothos said:

Hmmmmm nothin

ask a question or you get no answers.