E-HLT with automatic temp control build
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    The last two years I have used the kitchen stove to heat 3.5 gallons of strike water to mash in a 5 gallon cooler MLT. Run off into the keggle and add top up water and extract. I want to get a away from that for a variety of reasons, the first of which is we just bought a glasstop and I'm not allowed anymore. Sooooooooooo I need some help with working out the deets for an e-HLT.

    Project Scope: Convert keggle into an E-HLT with a temp controller.
    Short term goal: Gain ability to heat a large enough volume of water to complete all grain 10 gallon batches.
    Long term goal: Plumb with MLT and kettle to bring all component's into one consolidated "rig" controlled through one GUI.
    Budget: $200 (for the HLT)
    Current on hand resources relative to this project: Keggle with site glass and valve. Kent QDs to utilize single pump.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    I assume you have 220VAC power available... what amperage?

    What are you looking for in terms of ramp rates? Are you planning on using it as a HERMS heat source in the future is is that not in the plan? (simpler if the answer is no)

    For temp control do you want it to be a self contained dedicated temp controller or do you want to use an integrated, software based controller?
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Lakewood said:

    I assume you have 220VAC power available... what amperage?

    What are you looking for in terms of ramp rates? Are you planning on using it as a HERMS heat source in the future is is that not in the plan? (simpler if the answer is no)

    For temp control do you want it to be a self contained dedicated temp controller or do you want to use an integrated, software based controller?


    220 yes. At least 30.
    Ramp rates aren't a large concern. 8 gallons to 180 in under 20 minutes?
    No plans for HERMS at a later date.
    As far as control goes, it could be as simple on/off and dedicated. Software based would lead well into other integration, but that isn't a necessity for this project unless it's simplish and cheapish.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • JayrizzleJayrizzle
    Posts: 90,298
    How do you feel about outside? Knowing a little about you, you should look into rocket stoves....or tap into you wood furnace.
    "I don't have TP, but I do have ammo."
    -Some guy in Ohio
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616

    How do you feel about outside? Knowing a little about you, you should look into rocket stoves....or tap into you wood furnace.



    Tapping into the wood stove is another option. I've thought about it and I like the idea if I can hard plumb it. Right now I just want an HLT so I can brew dammit.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    C_B said:

    How do you feel about outside? Knowing a little about you, you should look into rocket stoves....or tap into you wood furnace.



    Tapping into the wood stove is another option. I've thought about it and I like the idea if I can hard plumb it. Right now I just want an HLT so I can brew dammit.


    I say start simple.

    A couple ssrs a good heater element and a simple controller. We could use process machines to control it if you want to use a laptop for a gui. Otherwise a dedicated pid controller can be had on ebay for cheap

    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Simple is more likely to happen, I completely agree.

    I love the idea of using Process Machines because I want to be there eventually and it would be badass. If it add a level of cost or complexity that reduces the likelihood of success I say PID.

    Buuut. Process Machines would add a unique dimension to this project. I say we go that route.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    Let me look into where things are with the Process Machines.

    With process machines:
    need a laptop to control.
    Need a usb cable to connect
    need a little black box for the brains / low voltage power supply
    Need a power interface / relay enclosure
    need a temp sensor

    with a dedicated pid
    need the pid unit
    need a panel to mount the unit to
    need a low voltage power supply for relays
    need power interface / relay enclosure
    need temp sensor

    Cost wise the dedicated pid may be a touch cheaper if you go with the elcheapo ebay unit, but if you buy a love or johnson brand controller I could do the PM version for a bit less...
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    If cost is close, I'd rather go PM. Unless there is a LOT more work involved somehow. But I'm guessing not?
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Unless you recommend against PM, let's plan for that.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Lakewood said:

    Let me look into where things are with the Process Machines.

    With process machines:
    need a laptop to control.
    Need a usb cable to connect
    need a little black box for the brains / low voltage power supply
    Need a power interface / relay enclosure
    need a temp sensor



    So that brings us here. I have the laptop. And probably a USB cable, but I might want a longer one. I'll check the circuit I'm planning to use also.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • JayrizzleJayrizzle
    Posts: 90,298
    C_B said:

    Simple is more likely to happen, I completely agree.



    So three cinder blocks a wood fire and to make it "automatic" a digital thermometer that beeps when it's at temp.

    C_B
    "I don't have TP, but I do have ammo."
    -Some guy in Ohio
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    30 amp circuit going to the dryer. That's the easiest one to get where I need to go.

    However, there is a spot in my panel that has been recently vacated by the water heater that I no longer use. I could put in whatever I want. I could put a 50 amp circuit in right there and make the pigtail for the HLT long enough to go back to that plug. That would require a 30' cord though where using the dryer outlet would be more like 10'.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    C_B said:

    30 amp circuit going to the dryer. That's the easiest one to get where I need to go.

    However, there is a spot in my panel that has been recently vacated by the water heater that I no longer use. I could put in whatever I want. I could put a 50 amp circuit in right there and make the pigtail for the HLT long enough to go back to that plug. That would require a 30' cord though where using the dryer outlet would be more like 10'.



    k

    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    ok, so i looked back at my notes to get a feel for how much work remains to get process machines into a deployable state and although the software looks pretty complete, there is still a ton of USB interface and the firmware for the hardware interface kit... not to mention having to build some additional hardware... so:

    im going to recommend we build a dedicated heater control with one of these

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-All-Purpose-PID-Temperature-Control-Controller-STC-1000-W-Sensor-110V-/321306690168?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4acf5f0278

    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Lakewood said:

    ok, so i looked back at my notes to get a feel for how much work remains to get process machines into a deployable state and although the software looks pretty complete, there is still a ton of USB interface and the firmware for the hardware interface kit... not to mention having to build some additional hardware... so:

    im going to recommend we build a dedicated heater control with one of these

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-All-Purpose-PID-Temperature-Control-Controller-STC-1000-W-Sensor-110V-/321306690168?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4acf5f0278



    I'm good with that. I have a Love that I use for ferm chamber and other things. I could use that one.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    ok. I recommend getting three of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-40DA-40A-250V-3-32VDC-/121340070783?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c406e8b7f

    three because it's good to have a spare just in case, and i recommend switching both hot leads instead of just one. yes, you *could* just switch one lead. but that's how mine is set up and in my experience the leakage current through the devices goes way up when they are hot and it may not shut off all the way.

    you;ll need an aluminum enclosure to mount the SSRs in - i recommend something finned so its better at dissipating the heat.

    you'll need something to provide DC power for the SSR controls, a 12-20V wall wart will work.

    at that point we have most of the big stuff. you'll need to decide if you want to make the aluminum box big enough to hold the PID unit or if you would rather have it mounted separately. Then we can figure out the wiring.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    A quick search gives me this...

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/S2607-All-Aluminum-amp-Enclosure-DIY-amplifier-BOX-PSU-Case-/121138702197?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item1c346de775

    I'm trying to lay this out in my head.... Dryer outlet - cable - enclosure with SSRs and PID - Element power cable - Element (with small waterproof enclosure at the vessel)
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Or I could get this and toss in two extra SSRs. Replace the potentiometer with a PID.

    http://www.stilldragon.com/diy-controller.html
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    That amp enclosure is pretty sweet. Overkill, but sweet.

    That other kit could work, but im not sure about the control input on the ssr, so you'd need to get the specs to determine how to dive it.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    I'm also considering a bottom drain. But in an HLT with with dip tube right in the center what's the point?
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    C_B said:

    I'm also considering a bottom drain. But in an HLT with with dip tube right in the center what's the point?



    No reason for both
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Lakewood said:

    C_B said:

    I'm also considering a bottom drain. But in an HLT with with dip tube right in the center what's the point?



    No reason for both


    Sorry to confuse. The vessel has one port in it currently that has a failure in the weld on the inside so it won't hold suction. I'm going to drill that one out and replace it with the element. Then put a new bulkhead in for a diptube. Sooooooooooooooooooooooooo, diptube or bottom drain? Bottom drain is swanky, but normal bulkhead is easy.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    C_B said:

    Lakewood said:

    C_B said:

    I'm also considering a bottom drain. But in an HLT with with dip tube right in the center what's the point?



    No reason for both


    Sorry to confuse. The vessel has one port in it currently that has a failure in the weld on the inside so it won't hold suction. I'm going to drill that one out and replace it with the element. Then put a new bulkhead in for a diptube. Sooooooooooooooooooooooooo, diptube or bottom drain? Bottom drain is swanky, but normal bulkhead is easy.


    ohh.. well if you are going to install one or the other, i would do a bottom drain if you have a means for supporting the hlt that wont interfere with the bottom drain. it's actually easier to weld the fitting on the bottom.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Lakewood said:

    C_B said:

    Lakewood said:

    C_B said:

    I'm also considering a bottom drain. But in an HLT with with dip tube right in the center what's the point?



    No reason for both


    Sorry to confuse. The vessel has one port in it currently that has a failure in the weld on the inside so it won't hold suction. I'm going to drill that one out and replace it with the element. Then put a new bulkhead in for a diptube. Sooooooooooooooooooooooooo, diptube or bottom drain? Bottom drain is swanky, but normal bulkhead is easy.


    ohh.. well if you are going to install one or the other, i would do a bottom drain if you have a means for supporting the hlt that wont interfere with the bottom drain. it's actually easier to weld the fitting on the bottom.

    Positioning is an issue. If this was going on/into a "rig" maybe... But I'm just not sure about future applications, so I think the side wall is safer.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    C_B said:

    Lakewood said:

    C_B said:

    Lakewood said:

    C_B said:

    I'm also considering a bottom drain. But in an HLT with with dip tube right in the center what's the point?



    No reason for both


    Sorry to confuse. The vessel has one port in it currently that has a failure in the weld on the inside so it won't hold suction. I'm going to drill that one out and replace it with the element. Then put a new bulkhead in for a diptube. Sooooooooooooooooooooooooo, diptube or bottom drain? Bottom drain is swanky, but normal bulkhead is easy.


    ohh.. well if you are going to install one or the other, i would do a bottom drain if you have a means for supporting the hlt that wont interfere with the bottom drain. it's actually easier to weld the fitting on the bottom.

    Positioning is an issue. If this was going on/into a "rig" maybe... But I'm just not sure about future applications, so I think the side wall is safer.


    are you welding it yourself or do you have someone doing the welding for you? and if it's someone else are you paying them?

    i ask because what im about to suggest would be uber cool but expensive if you are paying someone to do the welding for you...
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Lakewood said:

    C_B said:

    Lakewood said:

    C_B said:

    Lakewood said:

    C_B said:

    I'm also considering a bottom drain. But in an HLT with with dip tube right in the center what's the point?



    No reason for both


    Sorry to confuse. The vessel has one port in it currently that has a failure in the weld on the inside so it won't hold suction. I'm going to drill that one out and replace it with the element. Then put a new bulkhead in for a diptube. Sooooooooooooooooooooooooo, diptube or bottom drain? Bottom drain is swanky, but normal bulkhead is easy.


    ohh.. well if you are going to install one or the other, i would do a bottom drain if you have a means for supporting the hlt that wont interfere with the bottom drain. it's actually easier to weld the fitting on the bottom.

    Positioning is an issue. If this was going on/into a "rig" maybe... But I'm just not sure about future applications, so I think the side wall is safer.


    are you welding it yourself or do you have someone doing the welding for you? and if it's someone else are you paying them?

    i ask because what im about to suggest would be uber cool but expensive if you are paying someone to do the welding for you...


    Somewhere in the middle. I don't have the equipment or the skill to weld stainless, no less food grade. I do have someone that works for me occasionally and likes to "trade" that is vurry good at it.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    ok, well im thinking you could make a channel the exists through the skirt . i'll have to draw it up though.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    ok, so where are we at with this project?
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Score.
    1406124659520.jpg
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    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    sweet.

    you'll need a water heater element from the hardware store.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    Lakewood said:

    sweet.

    you'll need a water heater element from the hardware store.



    I don't know a lot about this. But I had a friend build one of these and he ended up buying the larger heating elements. The first set he bought were I guess kind of standard and just didn't heat up fast enough or hot enough.
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    Get the biggest baddest heater element you can.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    I'm lurking on this thread as I am kind of interested in doing this myself.
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Camco 02962/02963 5500W 240V Screw-In Lime Life Ripple Water Heater Element - Ultra Low Watt Density https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPG4LI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Q1f0tb1RKM8S5GRA

    22 amps on a 30 amp circuit. I don't feel like doing the math on how long it'll take to heat the water, but 5500 watts should do I would think.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Now I need to figure out the enclosure. Should I keep the temp controller and SSRs in a separate enclosure or put it all in one on the side of the kettle? Advantage: simple. Disadvantage: need to make triple sure no water can leak from the kettle into the enclosure.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    The ssrs will generate quite a bit of heat so id mount them separately in a metal enclosure. The pid should be somewhere convenient and can be in a nice sealed plastic box
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • jeepinjeepinjeepinjeepin
    Posts: 18,099
    C_B said:

    Camco 02962/02963 5500W 240V Screw-In Lime Life Ripple Water Heater Element - Ultra Low Watt Density https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPG4LI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Q1f0tb1RKM8S5GRA

    22 amps on a 30 amp circuit. I don't feel like doing the math on how long it'll take to heat the water, but 5500 watts should do I would think.



    Those are what I was using when I was monkeying with a similar project. They work. The ultra low density elements are what you need to avoid having caramelized elements.
    Sign here______________________________
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967

    C_B said:

    Camco 02962/02963 5500W 240V Screw-In Lime Life Ripple Water Heater Element - Ultra Low Watt Density https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPG4LI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Q1f0tb1RKM8S5GRA

    22 amps on a 30 amp circuit. I don't feel like doing the math on how long it'll take to heat the water, but 5500 watts should do I would think.



    Those are what I was using when I was monkeying with a similar project. They work. The ultra low density elements are what you need to avoid having caramelized elements.


    since it's going into a MLT the carmelization issue shouldnt be a concern. but if you can fit the physically larger element into the tun without any issues then go for it.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    so the last thing we need is a small power supply for the SSR driver circuits. they can be driven off of anything from 3 to 32 volts. so basically anything will work. hell if you dont mind changing batteries each brew day you could use a 9V battery to drive them.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Lakewood said:

    so the last thing we need is a small power supply for the SSR driver circuits. they can be driven off of anything from 3 to 32 volts. so basically anything will work. hell if you dont mind changing batteries each brew day you could use a 9V battery to drive them.



    I have plenty of old (and a few new/unused) power supplies. The first one that comes to mind is the one for the fence systems. I think they're 18v.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    K. 18v is between 3 and 32 so we should be good. Oh it needs to be DC... it that DC? If not we can rectify that situation.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Lakewood said:

    K. 18v is between 3 and 32 so we should be good. Oh it needs to be DC... it that DC? If not we can rectify that situation.



    I'll check but I'm pretty sure they're DC.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    Ok... so where are we at with this?
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    I have the power supply, STC-1000, (2) SSRs and heat sinks.

    Need...
    Element
    Keggle physically modified
    Box for SSRs
    Box for controller
    Wiring schematic
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,693
    Lakewood said:

    Ok... so where are we at with this?



    ohio. he's in ohio.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    C_B said:

    I have the power supply, STC-1000, (2) SSRs and heat sinks.

    Need...
    Element
    Keggle physically modified
    Box for SSRs
    Box for controller
    Wiring schematic



    I can provide the schematic
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Lakewood said:

    C_B said:

    I have the power supply, STC-1000, (2) SSRs and heat sinks.

    Need...
    Element
    Keggle physically modified
    Box for SSRs
    Box for controller
    Wiring schematic



    I can provide the schematic

    Mmk. I'll get on the keggle and source a couple boxes.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    Here you are.
    CB’s Electric Wonder Tun.jpg
    1280 x 720 - 110K
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • BenSBenS
    Posts: 6,248
    C_B said:

    I have the power supply, STC-1000, (2) SSRs and heat sinks.

    Need...
    Element
    Keggle physically modified
    Box for SSRs
    Box for controller
    Wiring schematic



    why do you need 2 boxes? I'm happy with one box.
    There's no starting point. It's just a massive sea of shit to wade through until you find the occasional corn kernel. -DrCurly
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    BenS said:

    C_B said:

    I have the power supply, STC-1000, (2) SSRs and heat sinks.

    Need...
    Element
    Keggle physically modified
    Box for SSRs
    Box for controller
    Wiring schematic



    why do you need 2 boxes? I'm happy with one box.


    Pics. Go.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    My system has three boxes. Does that make you feel like less of a man? It should.

    C_B
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Schematic seems easy enough to follow. What's the downside to putting all of these in one box on the side of the tun? Heat? With a medium sized heat sink on each SSR is that still a concern?
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    C_B said:

    Schematic seems easy enough to follow. What's the downside to putting all of these in one box on the side of the tun? Heat? With a medium sized heat sink on each SSR is that still a concern?



    No real downside. Just placement of a bigger box up higher and a limited heat sink for the ssrs.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    Btw you gotta make sure you get the heat out of the box. A big heat sink inside the box wont do any good after about 30 minutes when the box turns into an oven.

    I hope that was already obvious...
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Lakewood said:

    Btw you gotta make sure you get the heat out of the box. A big heat sink inside the box wont do any good after about 30 minutes when the box turns into an oven.

    I hope that was already obvious...


    Ha! Yes it was obvious. But it may not be to some. I need to find a box. But first I need to figure out what size of box.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    C_B said:

    Lakewood said:

    Btw you gotta make sure you get the heat out of the box. A big heat sink inside the box wont do any good after about 30 minutes when the box turns into an oven.

    I hope that was already obvious...


    Ha! Yes it was obvious. But it may not be to some. I need to find a box. But first I need to figure out what size of box.


    Yeah. For ssrs I put mine in this
    1407713232329.jpg
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    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    Aluminum box on an aluminum plate. Works pretty good
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    Control electronics are in this
    1407713318256.jpg
    640 x 480 - 109K
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    And I turn stuff off and on from this

    1407713464855.jpg
    640 x 480 - 129K
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    My st1000 never made it onto the rig. Someday.... maybe.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Are the controls and switch enclosures plastic or aluminium?
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    The large control box and the switch enclosure are both water-tight plastic centex electrical boxes. I prefer to be "not dead". No amount of grounding can give you 100% confidence when dealing with high voltage in a wet environment...
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • jeepinjeepinjeepinjeepin
    Posts: 18,099
    Lakewood said:

    The large control box and the switch enclosure are both water-tight plastic centex electrical boxes. I prefer to be "not dead". No amount of grounding can give you 100% confidence when dealing with high voltage in a wet environment...



    In a situation when the better ground path is both ground paths I hope to not be the second one.
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  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    so..... are we doing this?
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Yes. After I get back from Arkansas.

    And Colorado.

    Then yes.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    C_B said:

    Yes. After I get back from Arkansas.

    And Colorado.

    Then yes.



    are you planing on going to Arkansas and Colorado?
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,616
    Yes.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,967
    ok, that gives me hope.

    because if i said i was going to do something after i got back from Arkansas and Colorado.... it would never be happening.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny