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I want to mount taps in upper right hand part of this. My initial thought is to mount them so they would be accessed by opening the upper doors then holding the glass underneath in the open are. I should be able to cut out the lower shelf to accommodate this without hurting the structure overall. The idea here is with the doors closed it looks like a normal cabinet.
I'm going to run the trunk line up from the basement. So all I need is a small hole in the back for that to enter.
I think I need a completely separate box for the taps themselves. Something with a removable or hinged front panel to access the back of the taps if necessary. That way I can design that box to hold all of the tap line connections and the trunk line coolant return and insulate the heck out of all that independent from the cabinet. This will also allow me to bring the taps forward towards the front of the opening for easier access.IMAG0843.jpg1440 x 2560 - 528K"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
Here's a closeup of the inside shelf. I think cutting out where the taps pour. Basically mounting the taps so the shank is as low as possible, just above that shelf. I'm really not sure about this part.IMAG0844.jpg2560 x 1440 - 318K"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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Anyway, mama's all over my rear about this. Not a word about the destroyed upstairs.... She must be saving that one for later. I figure I ought to oblige as most of you poor bastards would get something this shot down from the phrase "I have a cool idea..."
Thoughts? Please?"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
I think it would be awkward .... just mount the taps through the wall in the open area .... just a thoughtNever attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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ceannt said:
I think it would be awkward .... just mount the taps through the wall in the open area .... just a thought
This is my biggest fear. Wifey wants them mounted in something. Not sure that'll happen.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
mount them to a piece of dark stained cherry. make sure you'll have enough room above the taps for cool tap handles and enough room below for taller glasses.
then, mount the 'plaque' with the taps to the back of the cabinet.The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake -
I'll snap a couple pictures tomorrow with taps in place and glasses in place to see how all that fits."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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I would probably use the lower cabinet and mount the faucets on a wooden box rail high enough and far enough out toward the door that it was easy to put the glass in and reach the tap handle.
Also I would put a drip plate in a raised box on the bottom so you can pull it out when needed.
If you do al that then the only hole is in the back, facing the wall.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
Lakewood said:
I would probably use the lower cabinet and mount the faucets on a wooden box rail high enough and far enough out toward the door that it was easy to put the glass in and reach the tap handle.
Also I would put a drip plate in a raised box on the bottom so you can pull it out when needed.
If you do al that then the only hole is in the back, facing the wall.
So far forward that I'll actually pour through the door opening is? Intriguing idea. This is why I bring this stuff here."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
i have seen people cut the top of an old oak barrel off, leaving maybe 6-10 inches. then sand it a little and put a clear coat or a dark stain on it and mount taps onto the face of it. thought it looks nice.
i was given clearance to do this, but after looking into it, its not worth it. the amount of pressure required to push that much beer up that distance is too great, lead to overcarbed beer. then, your first pint is all just what has been left in the line. not a problem, but kind of gross after a few days. also, its a pain the butt to run the recirculating cold water tube with an aquarium pump or somethign to keep the line cold so that first beer isn't room temp (in the summer)
too many problems. -
i'll just keep walking down the stupid steps.
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I was most concerned that the cabinet looked nice, old maybe, sort of antique. Maybe I'm wrong, but seemed a shame to cut up for a beer system. Also what Fry says, warm beer or extensive cooling system seems like a lot of work.
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It's pretty rough. Antique or not. But I really don't think my original idea is going to work. It would be cumbersome and hard to pour. Possibly lake's idea or abandon that all together."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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I think the most workable solution is something like lake suggested. Something like this where the bottom shelf doesn't come out. This wouldnt be great, but if I took the middle shelf out I think it would work just fine. Not sure I like it though.IMAG0850.jpg2560 x 1440 - 534K"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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I could mount the "tap box" on drawer style hinges that allows it to slide out a couple inches to pour then back in to shut the doors. Nothing like making a project more complicated."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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C_dubbs said:
I could mount the "tap box" on drawer style hinges that allows it to slide out a couple inches to pour then back in to shut the doors. Nothing like making a project more complicated.
yeah... i wouldnt do that....The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
Lakewood said:C_dubbs said:
I could mount the "tap box" on drawer style hinges that allows it to slide out a couple inches to pour then back in to shut the doors. Nothing like making a project more complicated.
yeah... i wouldnt do that....
There's a whole slew of problems that could result. The first thing that strikes me is moving the trunk line repeatedly and minimizing stress put on the trunkline/tap connections."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
C_dubbs said:Lakewood said:C_dubbs said:
I could mount the "tap box" on drawer style hinges that allows it to slide out a couple inches to pour then back in to shut the doors. Nothing like making a project more complicated.
yeah... i wouldnt do that....
There's a whole slew of problems that could result. The first thing that strikes me is moving the trunk line repeatedly and minimizing stress put on the trunkline/tap connections.
yeah... i wouldnt do that....The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
C_dubbs said:Lakewood said:C_dubbs said:
I could mount the "tap box" on drawer style hinges that allows it to slide out a couple inches to pour then back in to shut the doors. Nothing like making a project more complicated.
yeah... i wouldnt do that....
There's a whole slew of problems that could result. The first thing that strikes me is moving the trunk line repeatedly and minimizing stress put on the trunkline/tap connections.
and trying to keep it all cold.The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake -
if you abandon the cabinet idea, you could always just mount them on the wall somewhere, then build a box around them with the face of the box on hinges so it swings open like a cabinet. then install a cheap, or expensive if you want, clock kit onto the 'door'.
secret beer clock.The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake -
FromZwolle said:
if you abandon the cabinet idea, you could always just mount them on the wall somewhere, then build a box around them with the face of the box on hinges so it swings open like a cabinet. then install a cheap, or expensive if you want, clock kit onto the 'door'.
secret beer clock.
Beer clock! Always says it's 5 o'clock.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
Lakewood said:FromZwolle said:
if you abandon the cabinet idea, you could always just mount them on the wall somewhere, then build a box around them with the face of the box on hinges so it swings open like a cabinet. then install a cheap, or expensive if you want, clock kit onto the 'door'.
secret beer clock.
Beer clock! Always says it's 5 o'clock.
i'm for all this stuff
still think you're gonna have a heck of a time keeping it cold for that run. -
frydogbrews said:Lakewood said:FromZwolle said:
if you abandon the cabinet idea, you could always just mount them on the wall somewhere, then build a box around them with the face of the box on hinges so it swings open like a cabinet. then install a cheap, or expensive if you want, clock kit onto the 'door'.
secret beer clock.
Beer clock! Always says it's 5 o'clock.
i'm for all this stuff
still think you're gonna have a heck of a time keeping it cold for that run.
I'm planning to build a trunkline with chiller lines in it. Chilled by a modified dehumidifier that is made to chill a water/RV antifreeze solution. I'll have a temp controller in the trunkline wire to the dehumidifier to maintain the proper trunkline temp. Oddly, that's the least troublesome part of the build...."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
all of that constitutes "a heck of a time"
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"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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necroposting!!!!!!
you sir, are more procrastinative than even i.The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
I want to mount taps in this.