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after a double brew day today, i was thinking about boiling. i was running low on propane and with my big banjo burner needs a pretty full tank to maintain pressure. so for the second beer it was a very light boil, not really breaking the surface. still about 210 degrees though.
so, let's talk about boiling. does it need to be a rolling boil? if so, why? seems to me that 210 degrees woudl be plenty hot and totally unlikely to scorch anything, so its a win?
thoughts? -
i usually keep mine to just barely boiling. the only real difference that i've encountered is the boil off volume.The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
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FromZwolle said:
i usually keep mine to just barely boiling. the only real difference that i've encountered is the boil off volume.
so what is just barely boiling?
my kettle is large, so for me, i like to keep it where maybe every 3-5 seconds, a large bubble breaks the surface, but for the most part, the surface is flat and you can see the liquid moving beneath. -
frydogbrews said:FromZwolle said:
i usually keep mine to just barely boiling. the only real difference that i've encountered is the boil off volume.
so what is just barely boiling?
my kettle is large, so for me, i like to keep it where maybe every 3-5 seconds, a large bubble breaks the surface, but for the most part, the surface is flat and you can see the liquid moving beneath.
you can see the wort churning, but the surface is flat. there are small bubbles that push all the foam to one side, but no big bubbles.
something like a low simmer.The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake -
Too hard a boil is bad ..... thermal loading ..... bring it to a good boil until it settles down, then turn down the heat to what is described above ..... that's my my mottoNever attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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There's no starting point. It's just a massive sea of shit to wade through until you find the occasional corn kernel. -DrCurly
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BenS said:
A stronger boil is suggested.
Proof: http://bavarianbrewerytech.com/news/boilhops.htm
i read it, but i'm not convinced. a 3-5 degree difference shouldn't matter for any of the reasons they listed.
also, the point about driving out the oxygen is silly.
boiling hard enough to drive off 5% is easily achieved with a violent boil.
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I have read for years how important it is to maintain a good hard rolling boil ...... I call BS ...
that is a sure way to end up with DMS and other off flavors ... especially with lighter malts like pilsner .... a longer boil ... say 90 minutes ... at just barely boiling is way betterNever attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity. -
Thermal loading and a fast chill together is the devil!Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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ceannt said:
Thermal loading and a fast chill together is the devil!
What do you guys mean by thermal loading? Once water reaches a boil at a non changing surrounding pressure, the enthalpy of the water does not change no matter how vigorous of a boil it is.There's no starting point. It's just a massive sea of shit to wade through until you find the occasional corn kernel. -DrCurly -
Water also does not go above its boiling temperature. It simply becomes vapor. Which can be much hotter.There's no starting point. It's just a massive sea of shit to wade through until you find the occasional corn kernel. -DrCurly
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BenS said:ceannt said:
Thermal loading and a fast chill together is the devil!
What do you guys mean by thermal loading? Once water reaches a boil at a non changing surrounding pressure, the enthalpy of the water does not change no matter how vigorous of a boil it is.
Wort isn't just water ..... the particles in suspension can reach temps above 212.... way above ....Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity. -
That is why wort boils so crazy hard ... with huge big bubbles .... the water turns to vapor like mad since the suspended material is hotter than the water ...Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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And why I say its important to insure that the non water components don't go over 212Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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This is more important for bigger beers .... not so much for bud light clones ....Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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Remember ... specific gravityNever attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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A 10 per cent solution of sugar is one that contains 10 grams of sugar and 90 grams of water or one having these proportions.
Read more: http://chestofbooks.com/food/science/Experimental-Cookery/The-Boiling-Point-Of-Water-And-Solutions.html#.UStzH6XCaSo#ixzz2LvA5U8QV
Let's assume that 10% of the weight of the wort is solubles that have come from the mash, which I think is realistic. Of course it could be lower or higher depending on the beer being produced. I also realize that we aren't pulling straight sucrose from the mash but it puts us in the ballpark.
The above listed website has a chart that shows that a 10% sugar(by weight)/water solution has a boiling temp of 100.4C, 20% sugar/water = 100.6C. Not much difference from water.
None of that explains the idea of thermal loading. From the same website above,If a thermometer is held in the liquid it is found that when this point is reached the temperature is constant. This is the boiling point. A child might say that when a liquid is bubbling it is boiling, and it would be a fairly good definition. However, the chemist or physicist would word his definition differently. With vapor formation, pressure is exerted. Since the bubble is less dense than the liquid it comes to the surface. But the bubble cannot reach the surface until the pressure within it is just a little greater than the pressure of the liquid on the bubble. The pressure on the bubble in an open pan comes from the weight of the column of liquid above it and the atmospheric pressure on the surface of the liquid. Another way to define the boiling point is to say that it is the temperature at which the pressure of the saturated vapor within the liquid is just greater than the outside pressure on the surface of the liquid.
Read more: http://chestofbooks.com/food/science/Experimental-Cookery/The-Boiling-Point-Of-Water-And-Solutions.html#.UStzH6XCaSo#ixzz2LvCyP1sl
There's no starting point. It's just a massive sea of shit to wade through until you find the occasional corn kernel. -DrCurly -
No matter how hard you boil a liquid, it will not raise the temp above the 'boiling temp'. This is because the pressure of the saturated gas in the liquid will be released to the atmosphere as soon as its pressure is greater than the atmosphere. This is the basis of pressure cookers. They raise the pressure of the vapor above the liquid in the pot, thereby increasing the pressure of the staurated vapor in the liquid and the resulting temperature of the liquid is raised to ~250F at 15psi.There's no starting point. It's just a massive sea of shit to wade through until you find the occasional corn kernel. -DrCurly
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frydogbrews said:
i read it, but i'm not convinced. a 3-5 degree difference shouldn't matter for any of the reasons they listed.
also, the point about driving out the oxygen is silly.
boiling hard enough to drive off 5% is easily achieved with a violent boil.
The temperature difference between a simmering pot of wort and a 'violently boiling' pot of wort is not 3-5F, it is very minimal.
Boiling water does drive out oxygen, I don't know the exact reason why it's important for brewing, but there's no argument that boiling does reduce the % of oxygen dissolved in water. Of course, lots of oxygen is also re-absorbed into the water when cooled.......
A 5% evaporation rate is easily achievedThere's no starting point. It's just a massive sea of shit to wade through until you find the occasional corn kernel. -DrCurly -
The only real reason for a rolling boil is to drive off DMS and to further evaporate water if that is your desire. A low boil you will drive off less DMS.BJCP A0936 National Beer Judge and Mead Judge
Cicerone Certified Beer Server
AHA Member
CRAFT Homebrew Club
Sons of Liberty Homebrew Club
HBT "mors" -
mors said:
The only real reason for a rolling boil is to drive off DMS and to further evaporate water if that is your desire. A low boil you will drive off less DMS.
You actually drive off less DMS if the boil is too strong .... this is why the Belgians "simmer" their wort. I noticed a huge difference in my beer after I read "brew like a monk" and stopped boiling the hell out of my wort.Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity. -
There is a lot more in wort besides sugars too .... proteins.... particles of grain ... hops and such. If it takes 50,000 BTUs to maintain the temp necessary to boil the water .... and you run the burner at 100,000.... all those BTUs have to go somewhere .... most dissipates out the side of the pot .... but enough loads up in break material and other solids to form a constant "bubble" of water vapor around the particles ... keeping the DMS from going into suspension in the water and being driven off .... only a single degree above boiling will cause the water around each particle to immediately become vapor. At least this is my theory ....Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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I know what I am saying flys in the face of what most modern brewing convention insists .... but the Trappists have been saying this for a very long time ... and my experience bears them out ...Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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.... and it won't be the first .... or the last time that I buck "modern convention" with my brewing methodologyNever attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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ceannt said:
There is a lot more in wort besides sugars too .... proteins.... particles of grain ... hops and such. If it takes 50,000 BTUs to maintain the temp necessary to boil the water .... and you run the burner at 100,000.... all those BTUs have to go somewhere(2) .... most dissipates out the side of the pot .... but enough loads up in break material and other solids to form a constant "bubble" of water vapor around the particles(3) ... keeping the DMS from going into suspension in the water and being driven off .... only a single degree above boiling(1) will cause the water around each particle to immediately become vapor. At least this is my theory ....
(1) there is no such thing as 1 degree above boiling, see previous posts
(2) The amount of BTU's varies by mass(The volume of water).
Those BTU's do go somewhere, into the liquid. Increasing the energy going into the boil increases the energy being boiled off, hence a more vigorous boil. It does not stay in the liquid.
(3) If a solid is immersed in a boiling liquid, that solid will establish equilibrium with that liquid. Hence, nothing in a boiling pot of water/wort/whatever, will ever be a higher temp than the liquid.There's no starting point. It's just a massive sea of shit to wade through until you find the occasional corn kernel. -DrCurly -
ceannt said:mors said:
The only real reason for a rolling boil is to drive off DMS and to further evaporate water if that is your desire. A low boil you will drive off less DMS.
You actually drive off less DMS if the boil is too strong .... this is why the Belgians "simmer" their wort. I noticed a huge difference in my beer after I read "brew like a monk" and stopped boiling the hell out of my wort.
You may be right, I don't have much knowledge of DMS or its properties.There's no starting point. It's just a massive sea of shit to wade through until you find the occasional corn kernel. -DrCurly -
"Those BTU's do go somewhere, into the liquid"
and that.... is thermal loading...
My explanation may not be very scientific.... but almost thirty years of brewing has proven to me that my beer is a whole lot better boiling the way I do...... "empirical evidence"Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity. -
Tell you what..... mash 15.5 pounds of Pilsner malt.... and nothing else... split the wort.
Boil the hammered hell out of half of it for 60-minutes (add an ounce of noble hops for bittering only) and then immediately chill at flame out. Call this number 1.
Take the other half and bring it a boil, soon as it stopped foaming up lower the heat and keep it right "on the hairy edge" of boiling for 90 minutes (add the same quantity of hops at 60-min.) and let it sit for 5 or ten minutes before you chill, call this number 2. Pitch the same variety and quantity of yeast in both samples, and ferment side by side... I will guarantee you that you will like sample number 2 a whole lot better... and that sample one will reek of DMS.
Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity. -
ceannt said:
Tell you what..... mash 15.5 pounds of Pilsner malt.... and nothing else... split the wort.
Boil the hammered hell out of half of it for 60-minutes (add an ounce of noble hops for bittering only) and then immediately chill at flame out. Call this number 1.
Take the other half and bring it a boil, soon as it stopped foaming up lower the heat and keep it right "on the hairy edge" of boiling for 90 minutes (add the same quantity of hops at 60-min.) and let it sit for 5 or ten minutes before you chill, call this number 2. Pitch the same variety and quantity of yeast in both samples, and ferment side by side... I will qurantee you that you will like sample number 2 a whole lot better... and that sample one will reek of DMS.
I may be right, but it's not because of 'thermal loading'. There is no such thing, not in the way you are describing. 'Thermal loading' of water occurs below boiling temperature as the liquid gets hotter, water molecules are no longer able to absorb any more heat/energy at boiling temp. Hence, the undergo a phase change into vapor.
I am not disagreeing with you that a simmering pot of wort can make beer that is as good or better than a vigorous boil, I simply do not know. I will defer that to your brewing experience. I just know that it is not because of the physical/boiling properties of water. More likely it has to do with the chemical properties of the malt, but I don't really know.There's no starting point. It's just a massive sea of shit to wade through until you find the occasional corn kernel. -DrCurly -
i'm still sticking with a simmer. which, on my very accurate thermometer, is 209-210. when it starts boiling hard, it pegs to 212...sometimes on a 5 gallon batch of a double ipa i have seen 213 near the end of the boil because the water is being driven off and becoming more sugary----more heat is needed to bring it to a boil....so there is your one degree over boiling.
hell i get maple syrup up to 230 -
BenS said:ceannt said:
Tell you what..... mash 15.5 pounds of Pilsner malt.... and nothing else... split the wort.
Boil the hammered hell out of half of it for 60-minutes (add an ounce of noble hops for bittering only) and then immediately chill at flame out. Call this number 1.
Take the other half and bring it a boil, soon as it stopped foaming up lower the heat and keep it right "on the hairy edge" of boiling for 90 minutes (add the same quantity of hops at 60-min.) and let it sit for 5 or ten minutes before you chill, call this number 2. Pitch the same variety and quantity of yeast in both samples, and ferment side by side... I will qurantee you that you will like sample number 2 a whole lot better... and that sample one will reek of DMS.
I may be right, but it's not because of 'thermal loading'. There is no such thing, not in the way you are describing. 'Thermal loading' of water occurs below boiling temperature as the liquid gets hotter, water molecules are no longer able to absorb any more heat/energy at boiling temp. Hence, the undergo a phase change into vapor.
I am not disagreeing with you that a simmering pot of wort can make beer that is as good or better than a vigorous boil, I simply do not know. I will defer that to your brewing experience. I just know that it is not because of the physical/boiling properties of water. More likely it has to do with the chemical properties of the malt, but I don't really know.
I don't know either... at least on a scientificaly based "fact"..... but boiling like this was probably my biggest "breakthrough" in brewing better beers since I stopped racking to secondary back in the late 80's... (back when conventional "wisdom" said that anything longer than a week in Primary would ruin the beer...)
I used to avoid Pilsner Malt like the plauge because every dang time I used it... I ended up with DMS.... One day I decided to brew a Belgian, and my research led me to the low boil... I found that it made all of my beers better... significantly...
I truly think that most of the reason the "big boys" say to boil hard... is that it is easy... it's a pain in the backside to get the boil "just right" and takes a lot of attention and constant adjustment... I'm not sure its even possible to do with an automated system... too much judgement involved... its more "feel" than anything... (if that makes any sense at all)
My theory that the particles are not suspended in water, but in vapor may have no merit at all.... but I do see the particles rise to the top, when gravity should be forcing them to the bottom... I would think that that is because they are suspended in vapor... maybe even at a molecular level... I don't "know" this from textbook science... but I do know that the DMS issues I had when I boiled the crap out of my wort went away when I started doing it like this.... and all my beers were smoother, and had better flavor.Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity. -
ceannt said:
I truly think that most of the reason the "big boys" say to boil hard... is that it is easy... it's a pain in the backside to get the boil "just right" and takes a lot of attention and constant adjustment... I'm not sure its even possible to do with an automated system... too much judgement involved... its more "feel" than anything... (if that makes any sense at all)
it might have something to do with avoiding hot side aeration. i'm not very familiar with it, as i've never had any issues, but i imagine that it takes a bit more effort to boil out the O2 from 30bbl+ than it does with 5-10 gallons.The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake -
frydogbrews said:
so there is your one degree over boiling.
To Ben's point earlier.... There is no such thing as one degree over boiling. If you change the chemical makeup of the liquid you are boiling then 213 is the new boiling point. One degree over boiling results in a gaseous state.
And yes, out of all this THAT is the point I chose to make. I'm really just enjoying the read on the rest of it.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
I guess I'm in the middle. I choose a rolling boil, bubbles are not popping and exploding and it is above a dull simmer. I can see the wort rolling, turning over and I seem to be getting a consistent boil off. My last kolsh was pilsner malt and I boiled for 90 minutes. I'll see how it tastes. I'd be more interested in turning mine down before I cranked it up.
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@bens Wort is not a pure solution, its also a suspension, with great quantity of insoluble solids in it.
The things that can get over the solution boiling point are those insoluble solids, they represent a substantial thermal mass and are what can break down and release undesirable flavors if heated too much.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
how strong of a boil? does it matter?