-
Centennial 8.0% 2.3oz, Palisade 7.3% 1.7oz - combined in one package.
Palisade 7.3% 1.0oz, Cascade (U.S.) 5.4% 1.0oz -combined.
Cascade (U.S.) 5.4% 0.5oz, Mt. hood 5.2% 0.5oz - combined.
So I received a 5 gallon extract kit with these hops plus some more Palisade and a pile of DME and some specialty grains that I haven't figured out yet. I don't want to do the kit as it was intended for a couple reasons.
I'd like to turn it into a (or a couple) 10 gallon partial mash using my 5 gallon MLT to mash speciality grains and as much base malt as I can (max out the MLT at 15 lbs), making up the difference with DME.
I'd like something in the sessionable IPA area. Not epic big. Maybe 5%-6% and not face punch hoppy. I've been drinking SN Torpedo lately and love it's balance. Enough bitter and aroma without the heavy, thick feel of something like arrogant bastard. Also, I assume I'll have to fill in the blanks with new ingredients.
Thoughts?"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
this is your 60 minute addition
Cascade (U.S.) 5.4% 0.5oz, Mt. hood 5.2% 0.5oz - combined.
use this at 20 minutes
Palisade 7.3% 1.0oz, Cascade (U.S.) 5.4% 1.0oz -combined.
use this at 5 minutes
Centennial 8.0% 2.3oz, Palisade 7.3% 1.7oz - combined in one package.
dry hop with the extra palisade you talked about.
pair it with maybe 7 or 8 pounds of DME and a half pound of 10L and half pound of victory for your specialty grains.
that'll do ya. -
oh and use S-05
-
I agree with Fry above. Two other options:
1. Can you FWH a partial mash? If so you could consider moving either the Mt. Hood or the Cascade to FWH to bump up the IBU's.
2. Also, starting at the 20 min addition you could spread out your additions in 5 min increments. I persoanlly like late additions for the flavor and aroma you get. -
frydogbrews said:
oh and use S-05
S-05 is becoming my go to yeast for a lot of my beers and especially IPA's It's clean, cheaper than liquid and you don't need a starter for gravities under ~1.090. Even above that you are probably safe to just re-hydrate and pitch. -
jlw said:frydogbrews said:
oh and use S-05
S-05 is becoming my go to yeast for a lot of my beers and especially IPA's It's clean, cheaper than liquid and you don't need a starter for gravities under ~1.090. Even above that you are probably safe to just re-hydrate and pitch.
I use S-05 a lot. .. several folks have been fooled unto thinking that brews made with it were lagers ....Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity. -
But I like S-04 for IPAs... the fruitiness really goes well with an aggressive hop profileNever attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
-
Oh.... yes you can FWH a partial mash .... let the hops steep for 20 minutes or so in the runnings before the boilNever attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
-
frydogbrews said:
this is your 60 minute addition
Cascade (U.S.) 5.4% 0.5oz, Mt. hood 5.2% 0.5oz - combined.
use this at 20 minutes
Palisade 7.3% 1.0oz, Cascade (U.S.) 5.4% 1.0oz -combined.
use this at 5 minutes
Centennial 8.0% 2.3oz, Palisade 7.3% 1.7oz - combined in one package.
dry hop with the extra palisade you talked about.
pair it with maybe 7 or 8 pounds of DME and a half pound of 10L and half pound of victory for your specialty grains.
that'll do ya.
For a 10 gallon batch?
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
jlw said:
I agree with Fry above. Two other options:
1. Can you FWH a partial mash? If so you could consider moving either the Mt. Hood or the Cascade to FWH to bump up the IBU's.
2. Also, starting at the 20 min addition you could spread out your additions in 5 min increments. I persoanlly like late additions for the flavor and aroma you get.
1) yes. I'm still going to mash ~15 pounds of grain. I'll just use the DME to fill in.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
CB said:frydogbrews said:
this is your 60 minute addition
Cascade (U.S.) 5.4% 0.5oz, Mt. hood 5.2% 0.5oz - combined.
use this at 20 minutes
Palisade 7.3% 1.0oz, Cascade (U.S.) 5.4% 1.0oz -combined.
use this at 5 minutes
Centennial 8.0% 2.3oz, Palisade 7.3% 1.7oz - combined in one package.
dry hop with the extra palisade you talked about.
pair it with maybe 7 or 8 pounds of DME and a half pound of 10L and half pound of victory for your specialty grains.
that'll do ya.
For a 10 gallon batch?
hell no son, you said you wanted an ipa. -
frydogbrews said:CB said:frydogbrews said:
this is your 60 minute addition
Cascade (U.S.) 5.4% 0.5oz, Mt. hood 5.2% 0.5oz - combined.
use this at 20 minutes
Palisade 7.3% 1.0oz, Cascade (U.S.) 5.4% 1.0oz -combined.
use this at 5 minutes
Centennial 8.0% 2.3oz, Palisade 7.3% 1.7oz - combined in one package.
dry hop with the extra palisade you talked about.
pair it with maybe 7 or 8 pounds of DME and a half pound of 10L and half pound of victory for your specialty grains.
that'll do ya.
For a 10 gallon batch?
hell no son, you said you wanted an ipa.
Ha, I thought as much. I want to make a 10 gallon batch, so I have some scaling to do."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
you need to go buy more hops
-
frydogbrews said:
you need to go buy more hops
I expected as much. What and how many is what I'm driving for.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
I'll punch this in to hopville or something later tonight and put together an actual recipe."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
-
You should have enough palisade to bump up each addition to 10 gallon levels.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
-
Lakewood said:
You should have enough palisade to bump up each addition to 10 gallon levels.
I just weighted the extra Palisade. There is 6+ oz there.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
-
@Lakewood Any idea what the 14 oz of crushed grain in this it is?"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
-
@CB
from the 10Gal recipe...
Carastan (Crystal), 15 1.5 6%
Wheat Malt (GWM) 0.25 1%
you can ratio the amounts, but basically it's Crystal 15 with a touch of Wheat.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
Specific Gravity
1.064 OG
(1.057 to 1.067)
15.7° Plato
1.017 FG
(1.015 to 1.018)
4.3° Plato
Color
6° SRM
11° EBC
Yellow to Gold
Malt & Fermentables
% LB OZ °L
67% 14 ~ Great Western Premium 2-Row Malt
29% 6 ~ Briess DME Golden Light
3% ~ 10 Crystal 15L
1% ~ 4 Wheat Malt
Hops
Usage Time OZ AA » IBU
FWH 20 min ½ Cascade ~ pellet 5.5 » 3.6
FWH 20 min ½ Mt. Hood ~ pellet 6.0 » 4.0
boil 25 min 1 Cascade ~ pellet 5.5 » 8.3
boil 25 min 1 Palisades ~ pellet 7.3 » 11.1
boil 5 min 2 ¼ Centennial ~ pellet 8.0 » 7.8
boil 5 min 1 ¾ Palisades ~ pellet 7.3 » 5.6
Bitterness
40.4 IBU
ƒ: Tinseth
0 HBU
Yeast
Safale US-05 Dry Yeast
yeast in dry form with low to medium flocculation and 73% attenuation
Alcohol
6.3% ABV
5.0% ABW
Calories
211
per 12 oz.
As you hop heads look at this and cringe for the lack of hops, remember I want an easy drinking low-mid hopped IPA (because I'm not a hop head). I still have 6oz of Palisades I could add in here anywhere or dry hop with.
Should I add more Palisades to the FWH? If I do that do I need to add a balanced amount of Mt. Hood to the FWH?
Should I get a different hop to Dry Hop?
Will this be weak?
Thoughts?"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
i am fighting the urge to fly off on my rant about things like "session IPA's" and crap like that.
bottom line, 40 IBU's is not an IPA. it looks like you're making a good old generic pale ale. nothing wrong with that, but its not an IPA.
with the notoriety of "IPA" the past several years, it is being tacked onto way too many beer styles, making it a serious pain in my ass when i am purchase IPA's at a bar or store to try a new one and find out its a weakly hopped pale or something.
*pretty proud of this, although it looks like a rant, i held back greatly! yay! -
frydogbrews said:
i am fighting the urge to fly off on my rant about things like "session IPA's" and crap like that.
bottom line, 40 IBU's is not an IPA. it looks like you're making a good old generic pale ale. nothing wrong with that, but its not an IPA.
with the notoriety of "IPA" the past several years, it is being tacked onto way too many beer styles, making it a serious pain in my ass when i am purchase IPA's at a bar or store to try a new one and find out its a weakly hopped pale or something.
*pretty proud of this, although it looks like a rant, i held back greatly! yay!
While Fry is obviously way too emotional about the subject, he's right, this is just a pale ale or blonde. But there's nothing wrong with that. Enjoy.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
One thing I would add is a flame out addition. Throw some of that palisade in when you shut the boil off an let is steep for 30 min. No bitterness but you will get great aroma and some flava flav
-
Or just dry hop the whole 6The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
-
frydogbrews said:
i am fighting the urge to fly off on my rant about things like "session IPA's" and crap like that.
bottom line, 40 IBU's is not an IPA. it looks like you're making a good old generic pale ale. nothing wrong with that, but its not an IPA.
with the notoriety of "IPA" the past several years, it is being tacked onto way too many beer styles, making it a serious pain in my ass when i am purchase IPA's at a bar or store to try a new one and find out its a weakly hopped pale or something.
*pretty proud of this, although it looks like a rant, i held back greatly! yay!
Ah. You are correct. I am definitely guilty of calling anything that has more hops than malt an IPA. I have corrected the title to reflect this.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
jlw said:
One thing I would add is a flame out addition. Throw some of that palisade in when you shut the boil off an let is steep for 30 min. No bitterness but you will get great aroma and some flava flav
Lakewood said:Or just dry hop the whole 6
What is more shelf stable? I'm thinking about dry hopping one bucket as soon as the beer is done but waiting a month to dry hop the other bucket so it is closer to the time I'll actually drink the second half of the batch.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
CB said:
I still have 6oz of Palisades I could add in here anywhere or dry hop with.
If I add more Palisades to the FWH, do I need to add a balanced amount of Mt. Hood to the FWH?
Should I get a different hop to Dry Hop?
Thoughts?
These things where not answered after Fry's rant."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
CB said:CB said:
I still have 6oz of Palisades I could add in here anywhere or dry hop with.
If I add more Palisades to the FWH, do I need to add a balanced amount of Mt. Hood to the FWH?
Should I get a different hop to Dry Hop?
Thoughts?
These things where not answered after Fry's rant.
palisade is fine for bumping up the FWH and doing the dry hop. You will lose a touch of complexity by reducing the Mt. Hood ratio, but it's not going to be bad, just different.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
CB said:jlw said:
One thing I would add is a flame out addition. Throw some of that palisade in when you shut the boil off an let is steep for 30 min. No bitterness but you will get great aroma and some flava flav
Lakewood said:Or just dry hop the whole 6
What is more shelf stable? I'm thinking about dry hopping one bucket as soon as the beer is done but waiting a month to dry hop the other bucket so it is closer to the time I'll actually drink the second half of the batch.
i don't think there is any science out there on whether the flavor/aroma from a flame out addition is more or less stable than the compounds released through dry hoping. i could be wrong there, but i haven't seen it. They result in different flavor/aroma profiles though. with dry hopping being a much more intense aroma punch, while flame out addition will give you more of a flavor boost with a lot less aroma.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
Lakewood said:CB said:jlw said:
One thing I would add is a flame out addition. Throw some of that palisade in when you shut the boil off an let is steep for 30 min. No bitterness but you will get great aroma and some flava flav
What is more shelf stable? I'm thinking about dry hopping one bucket as soon as the beer is done but waiting a month to dry hop the other bucket so it is closer to the time I'll actually drink the second half of the batch.Lakewood said:Or just dry hop the whole 6
i don't think there is any science out there on whether the flavor/aroma from a flame out addition is more or less stable than the compounds released through dry hoping. i could be wrong there, but i haven't seen it. They result in different flavor/aroma profiles though. with dry hopping being a much more intense aroma punch, while flame out addition will give you more of a flavor boost with a lot less aroma.
can you peel off 5 gals then do the flame out addition on the remaining half? shouldn't be too hard. -
frydogbrews said:Lakewood said:CB said:jlw said:
One thing I would add is a flame out addition. Throw some of that palisade in when you shut the boil off an let is steep for 30 min. No bitterness but you will get great aroma and some flava flav
What is more shelf stable? I'm thinking about dry hopping one bucket as soon as the beer is done but waiting a month to dry hop the other bucket so it is closer to the time I'll actually drink the second half of the batch.Lakewood said:Or just dry hop the whole 6
i don't think there is any science out there on whether the flavor/aroma from a flame out addition is more or less stable than the compounds released through dry hoping. i could be wrong there, but i haven't seen it. They result in different flavor/aroma profiles though. with dry hopping being a much more intense aroma punch, while flame out addition will give you more of a flavor boost with a lot less aroma.
can you peel off 5 gals then do the flame out addition on the remaining half? shouldn't be too hard.
Too hard? No. Annoying because I use an IC to chill while recirculating with a pump? Yes.
I'll think on this one though.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
jlw said:
One thing I would add is a flame out addition. Throw some of that palisade in when you shut the boil off an let is steep for 30 min. No bitterness but you will get great aroma and some flava flav
Lakewood said:CB said:CB said:I still have 6oz of Palisades I could add in here anywhere or dry hop with.
If I add more Palisades to the FWH, do I need to add a balanced amount of Mt. Hood to the FWH?
Should I get a different hop to Dry Hop?
Thoughts?
These things where not answered after Fry's rant.
palisade is fine for bumping up the FWH and doing the dry hop. You will lose a touch of complexity by reducing the Mt. Hood ratio, but it's not going to be bad, just different.
Hops
Usage Time OZ AA » IBU
FWH 20 min 1.5 Cascade ~ pellet 5.5 » 10.9
FWH 20 min 1.5 Mt. Hood ~ pellet 6.0 » 11.9
boil 25 min 1 Cascade ~ pellet 5.5 » 7.3
boil 25 min 1 Palisades ~ pellet 7.3 » 9.6
boil 5 min 2 ¼ Centennial ~ pellet 8.0 » 7.8
boil 5 min 1 ¾ Palisades ~ pellet 7.3 » 5.6
Flame out 1(??)Palisades(??)
This calculates to 53.1 IBU.
What's urrybody think about this?
Should I use Palisade for dry hop or something completely different? Centennial or something...?"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
C_dubbs said:jlw said:
One thing I would add is a flame out addition. Throw some of that palisade in when you shut the boil off an let is steep for 30 min. No bitterness but you will get great aroma and some flava flav
Lakewood said:CB said:CB said:I still have 6oz of Palisades I could add in here anywhere or dry hop with.
If I add more Palisades to the FWH, do I need to add a balanced amount of Mt. Hood to the FWH?
Should I get a different hop to Dry Hop?
Thoughts?
These things where not answered after Fry's rant.
palisade is fine for bumping up the FWH and doing the dry hop. You will lose a touch of complexity by reducing the Mt. Hood ratio, but it's not going to be bad, just different.
Hops
Usage Time OZ AA » IBU
FWH 20 min 1.5 Cascade ~ pellet 5.5 » 10.9
FWH 20 min 1.5 Mt. Hood ~ pellet 6.0 » 11.9
boil 25 min 1 Cascade ~ pellet 5.5 » 7.3
boil 25 min 1 Palisades ~ pellet 7.3 » 9.6
boil 5 min 2 ¼ Centennial ~ pellet 8.0 » 7.8
boil 5 min 1 ¾ Palisades ~ pellet 7.3 » 5.6
Flame out 1(??)Palisades(??)
This calculates to 53.1 IBU.
What's urrybody think about this?
Should I use Palisade for dry hop or something completely different? Centennial or something...?
How many oz of Palisades should I use at Flameout?
I'm picking up the stuff for this Friday to brew next week. This is more hops than anything I have brewed yet (other than the WA that I screwed up), so I'm pretty stoked.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
I would add 2 oz at flameout. Make sure you let it rest after you add the flameout hops.
-
jlw said:
I would add 2 oz at flameout. Make sure you let it rest after you add the flameout hops.
30 minutes? That's easy enough. Is there any reason not to start the whirlpool then? As it is now (only one brew with a pump) I put the IC in with 15 to go and then start the pump and whirlpool after that, somewhere around 5 to go.
Now I'm getting all excited..."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
Is that 30 minutes while chilling or 30 minutes before chilling?The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
-
Lakewood said:
Is that 30 minutes while chilling or 30 minutes before chilling?
I guess there are couple different ways to do it. I personally throw them when I shut the flame off and then cover the pot with foil and let them sit for 30 min.
I have also read to throw them in and then chill as quickly as possible.\
I have also read to bring the wort temp down to 180 and then throw them in.
Not sure if there is a right or wrong way with this technique. I guess letting it sit for 30 minutes could create potential issues but I have never had a problem. -
C_dubbs said:jlw said:
I would add 2 oz at flameout. Make sure you let it rest after you add the flameout hops.
30 minutes? That's easy enough. Is there any reason not to start the whirlpool then? As it is now (only one brew with a pump) I put the IC in with 15 to go and then start the pump and whirlpool after that, somewhere around 5 to go.
Now I'm getting all excited...
Let me clarify what I meant by this.... Whirlpool, and have the IC in the kettle, but I won't turn on the chilling water until after the 30 minute rest. This should have a really nice whirlpool since the valve will only need to be open a little bit."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
I throw them in and chill as quickly as possible. Letting it sit above 180 will isomerize the hops, losing the crispness.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
-
Lakewood said:
I throw them in and chill as quickly as possible. Letting it sit above 180 will isomerize the hops, losing the crispness.
this is what i do too, for the same reason.
i have let them sit before, but always ended up with more bitterness than aroma -
Lakewood said:
I throw them in and chill as quickly as possible. Letting it sit above 180 will isomerize the hops, losing the crispness.
I'll give this try next time. -
Malt & Fermentables
% LB OZ °L PPG
65% 14 ~ Great Western Premium 2-Row Malt
28% 6 ~ Briess DME Golden Light
3% ~ 10 Crystal 15L
2% ~ 8 Victory Malt
1% ~ 4 Wheat Malt
Specific Gravity
1.065 OG
(1.058 to 1.068)
15.9° Plato
Hops
Time OZ AA » IBU
FWH 1 ½ Cascade ~ pellet 5.5 » 17.8
FWH 1 ½ Mt. Hood ~ pellet 6.0 » 19.4
20 min 1 Cascade ~ pellet 5.5 » 7.2
20 min 1 Palisades ~ pellet 7.3 » 9.5
5 min 2 ¼ Centennial ~ pellet 8.0 » 7.7
5 min 1 ¾ Palisades ~ pellet 7.3 » 5.5
Flame out 2 Palisades ~ pellet 7.3 » 0.0
Bitterness
52.5 IBU
Yeast
Safale US-05 Dry Yeast
I put the Victory in there when I reread everyone's comments.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
Btw, @frydogbrews The BJCP defines an English Pale Ale (ordinary bitter, special bitter and ESB) topping out at 50 IBUs, where American Pale Ales top out at 45 IBU. Both American and English IPAs start at 40 IBUs. That places this recipe solidly in the IPA category. Even without the bumped up FWH hops, it is still in between a Pale Ale and an IPA."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
-
CB - this looks really good. Curious on what color this is going to turn out to be? What's the SRM?
-
C_dubbs said:
Btw, @frydogbrews The BJCP defines an English Pale Ale (ordinary bitter, special bitter and ESB) topping out at 50 IBUs, where American Pale Ales top out at 45 IBU. Both American and English IPAs start at 40 IBUs. That places this recipe solidly in the IPA category. Even without the bumped up FWH hops, it is still in between a Pale Ale and an IPA.
that needs to be updated. there has been a sea change, that what leads to revolution.
-
jlw said:
CB - this looks really good. Curious on what color this is going to turn out to be? What's the SRM?
6. I thought it might be a shade darker than that. What do you think about having the Victory and crystal 15? too much?
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
frydogbrews said:C_dubbs said:
Btw, @frydogbrews The BJCP defines an English Pale Ale (ordinary bitter, special bitter and ESB) topping out at 50 IBUs, where American Pale Ales top out at 45 IBU. Both American and English IPAs start at 40 IBUs. That places this recipe solidly in the IPA category. Even without the bumped up FWH hops, it is still in between a Pale Ale and an IPA.
that needs to be updated. there has been a sea change, that what leads to revolution.
Completely agree. What I referenced was the 2008 guidelines. I couldn't find anything newer than that.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
C_dubbs said:jlw said:
CB - this looks really good. Curious on what color this is going to turn out to be? What's the SRM?
6. I thought it might be a shade darker than that. What do you think about having the Victory and crystal 15? too much?
I think it will be fine. I like dry IPA's and I also like sweet IPA's they both have their place. I think this one will be just fine it only accounts for 5% of the grist. -
jlw said:C_dubbs said:jlw said:
CB - this looks really good. Curious on what color this is going to turn out to be? What's the SRM?
6. I thought it might be a shade darker than that. What do you think about having the Victory and crystal 15? too much?
I think it will be fine. I like dry IPA's and I also like sweet IPA's they both have their place. I think this one will be just fine it only accounts for 5% of the grist.
Good. I'm leaving it as it then. I already have my shopping list. I'm not sure what I like most, I guess a sweeter IPA? What would Centennial IPA be? Or Southern Tier's 2XIPA?
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
C_dubbs said:jlw said:C_dubbs said:jlw said:
CB - this looks really good. Curious on what color this is going to turn out to be? What's the SRM?
6. I thought it might be a shade darker than that. What do you think about having the Victory and crystal 15? too much?
I think it will be fine. I like dry IPA's and I also like sweet IPA's they both have their place. I think this one will be just fine it only accounts for 5% of the grist.
Good. I'm leaving it as it then. I already have my shopping list. I'm not sure what I like most, I guess a sweeter IPA? What would Centennial IPA be? Or Southern Tier's 2XIPA?
It's been awhile since I had either of those buit I think they are both on the drier side. I wasn;t very clear in my previous post. I don;t think this will be sweet at all. Just as an example here is the Avery Maharaja Clone:
It uses C120 and some victory.
Boil Size: 6.93 gal
Post Boil Volume: 6.24 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Bottling Volume: 5.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.089 SG
Estimated Color: 10.5 SRM
Estimated IBU: 90.7 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 85.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 92.7 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
15 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 93.8 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 2 3.1 %
8.0 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 3 3.1 %
4.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 9 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 64.1 IBUs
2.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 10 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Crystal [3.50 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 11 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Boil 30. Hop 5 26.5 IBUs
2.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 7 0.0 IBUs
2.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 6 0.0 IBUs
2.0 pkg California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) [35. Yeast 8 - -
Also, I just looked up the BYO Racer 5 Clone and it also uses 12oz of C15 and 8 oz of wheat and gets an SRM of 8.
This will be a good APA/IPA -
jlw said:
It's been awhile since I had either of those buit I think they are both on the drier side. I wasn;t very clear in my previous post. I don;t think this will be sweet at all. Just as an example here is the Avery Maharaja Clone:
It uses C120 and some victory.
Boil Size: 6.93 gal
Post Boil Volume: 6.24 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Bottling Volume: 5.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.089 SG
Estimated Color: 10.5 SRM
Estimated IBU: 90.7 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 85.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 92.7 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
15 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 93.8 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 2 3.1 %
8.0 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 3 3.1 %
4.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 9 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 64.1 IBUs
2.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 10 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Crystal [3.50 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 11 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Boil 30. Hop 5 26.5 IBUs
2.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 7 0.0 IBUs
2.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 6 0.0 IBUs
2.0 pkg California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) [35. Yeast 8 -
Ah. Gotchya. I've never had Avery Maharaja...
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
jlw said:
Also, I just looked up the BYO Racer 5 Clone and it also uses 12oz of C15 and 8 oz of wheat and gets an SRM of 8.
This will be a good APA/IPA
This is basically what I'm shooting for. Something that muddies the water between both of those but cannot be described as a double or imperial."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
I'm not fond of the sweet ones .....
I like a full malty background though ....
Wish commercial brewers would not confuse malty with sweet .....Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity. -
What you have should be goodNever attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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In my Maharaja post I used an incorrect word. I meant "Malty" not "Sweet". Haven't finished my coffee yet.
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ceannt said:
I'm not fond of the sweet ones .....
I like a full malty background though ....
Wish commercial brewers would not confuse malty with sweet .....
This this this.
ceannt said:What you have should be good
Good. I'm feeling pretty good about this now.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
I think I am going to brew an IPA this weekend. I need a recipe but I need to see what hops I have lying around. I have enough I should be able to do a hop bomb (i think).
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The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
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FromZwolle said:
It's looking like Monday. That's the nicest day of next week. So I may just have to man up and do it as soon as I get home in the morning. I'll sleep when I'm dead.
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
ipa's should not be malty. not american ones anyway. the english can do as they please.
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Not balanced towards malty no ..... but IPAs are outstanding if instead of throwing in a ton of crystal malts there is a richness from malt flavor to back up the aggressive hop profile ..... most commercial IPAs would be like drinking out of a hummingbird feeder if you took the hops out ..... just a touch of light munich or something does magicNever attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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I got the rest of the ingredients this morning. Monday morning brew time, weather permitting."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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ceannt said:
Not balanced towards malty no ..... but IPAs are outstanding if instead of throwing in a ton of crystal malts there is a richness from malt flavor to back up the aggressive hop profile ..... most commercial IPAs would be like drinking out of a hummingbird feeder if you took the hops out ..... just a touch of light munich or something does magic
i totally agree with all of this. you get a fuller flavor by laying off the sweetness and instead balancing with richness. there is a difference.
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frydogbrews said:ceannt said:
Not balanced towards malty no ..... but IPAs are outstanding if instead of throwing in a ton of crystal malts there is a richness from malt flavor to back up the aggressive hop profile ..... most commercial IPAs would be like drinking out of a hummingbird feeder if you took the hops out ..... just a touch of light munich or something does magic
i totally agree with all of this. you get a fuller flavor by laying off the sweetness and instead balancing with richness. there is a difference.
Yup .... its not that difficult of a concept .... I will never understand why most of the "big boys" can't seem to grasp itNever attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity. -
it's about time!The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
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Never attribute to malice, that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
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"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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I went with 152* mash on this one. Probably a degree or even two high for an IPA (shut it fry) but I don't want it too dry."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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C_dubbs said:
I went with 152* mash on this one. Probably a degree or even two high for an IPA (shut it fry) but I don't want it too dry.
that's about where i like em.The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake -
FromZwolle said:C_dubbs said:
I went with 152* mash on this one. Probably a degree or even two high for an IPA (shut it fry) but I don't want it too dry.
that's about where i like em.
I'm using some DME, so hopefully that won't leave the FG too high. But I'm willing to risk it."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
I need to do one of those digital thingies. Or just a floating leave in thermometer. Those are uber cheap."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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this thread needs pictures.The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
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so i split that off, then realized it was stupid, now your post about your fail is gone. oops.
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Here?FB_IMG_13545604271698218.jpg1920 x 2560 - 1004K"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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looks like you're kettle is wearing a white dress shirt with a ridiculously thin blue tie.The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
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GENTLEMEN!The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
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Well. I don't have a clue what just happened."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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My Hop schedule looked like this
1oz Mt. Hood 60 minutes
1oz Cascade 60 minutes
1oz Cascade 20 minutes
1oz Palisade 20 minutes
and here is where it gets really fun...
Flame out...
2.3oz Centennial
1.7oz Palisade
0.5oz Cascade
0.5oz Mt. Hood
I think. I had to baby sit the dang thing for the longest hot break ever, even then it never really calmed down. I got all flustered when I couldn't remember which addition was which since the packages didn't match exactly what I was using them for plus the weights didn't match what I thought they were. Plus I forgot the first wort hop, so I backed off on the 60 addition. At least it's beer."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
not yet its not.
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Mmk. This has been in primary for 20 days now. I'm going to pull a gravity sample and see what's the haps.
If the gravity isn't down where it needs to be I'll probably pull the buckets up to a little warmer part of the house. But I also need to dry hops this stuff. I have 6 oz of palisades. I'm thinking 2oz in each fermenter for 7ish days?
"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
One other question... since it'll be a while (month or two, maybe longer than that) before I get to drinking the second half of this should I wait to dry hop that till then?"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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C_dubbs said:
One other question... since it'll be a while (month or two, maybe longer than that) before I get to drinking the second half of this should I wait to dry hop that till then?
Might be an opportunity to compare the difference between a beer that has been dry hopped for 7 days and one that has been dry hopped for 7 weeks. Sounds like a good experiment to me.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
Interesting thought... Dry hop the longer half colder to avoid grassy flavors? I should do some research around this since I am new to dry hopping period."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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C_dubbs said:
Interesting thought... Dry hop the longer half colder to avoid grassy flavors? I should do some research around this since I am new to dry hopping period.
yesThe only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny -
of course, post what you do and the results!The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
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Lakewood said:
of course, post what you do and the results!
'course"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
C_dubbs said:
Interesting thought... Dry hop the longer half colder to avoid grassy flavors? I should do some research around this since I am new to dry hopping period.
i have done this experiment
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one batch i dry hopped for 7 days and 14 days and one batch i dry hopped for 7 days and 21 days
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the 21 days one was picking up some grassiness in a bad way.
still totally drinkable, but glad i pulled them when i did
(sorry about the 3 posts.....forgot where i was) -
What temp was the beer in this experiment?"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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55, 60 max
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FG 1.006. I think it's done."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
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Is the airlock still bubbling? That's THE only way to tell when fermentation is done.
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jlw said:
Is the airlock still bubbling? That's THE only way to tell when fermentation is done.
this.
it should actually be our new motto
Help me design a Pale Ale for these hops.
