SS Keggle bulkheads - Welded, weldless or soldered?
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,440
    Currently the kettle has a sight gauge/thermometer bulkhead and an bulkhead for the outlet valve. I think I'm going to move the outlet to the bottom of the kettle near the side, install the element where the valve used to be and add a recirc return port halfishway up the side.

    I know a welder than has done a lot of other work for me. Says he can do sanitary, I believe he can. Probably ~$50 - $75? Maybe less.

    I have a weldless sight gauge and diptube bulkheads now with no leaking issues.

    Soldering I can do myself (plenty of copper, never SS so there may be a learning curve) and that would be much stronger that weldless for something like the the ball valve that gets a lot of action.

    Sooooooo
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,586
    get it welded.

    C_B
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,440
    Lakewood said:

    get it welded.



    Care to elaborate? Why not solder? I could do it myself and would be a nice DIY project that I can say I did myself.
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • JayrizzleJayrizzle
    Posts: 90,049
    Just get it welded. If you've got a guy who gives you prices like that and at least kinda knows what he's doing, just get it welded.
    "I don't have TP, but I do have ammo."
    -Some guy in Ohio
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,586
    C_B said:

    Lakewood said:

    get it welded.



    Care to elaborate? Why not solder? I could do it myself and would be a nice DIY project that I can say I did myself.


    bonding stainless steel with any sort of brazing or soldering is an exercise in futility. This is especially true when you are talking about a very small interfaces like a thin walled vessel penetration. Welding is really the only way to get a strong permanent bond.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
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