SS Keggle bulkheads - Welded, weldless or soldered?
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Currently the kettle has a sight gauge/thermometer bulkhead and an bulkhead for the outlet valve. I think I'm going to move the outlet to the bottom of the kettle near the side, install the element where the valve used to be and add a recirc return port halfishway up the side.
I know a welder than has done a lot of other work for me. Says he can do sanitary, I believe he can. Probably ~$50 - $75? Maybe less.
I have a weldless sight gauge and diptube bulkheads now with no leaking issues.
Soldering I can do myself (plenty of copper, never SS so there may be a learning curve) and that would be much stronger that weldless for something like the the ball valve that gets a lot of action.
Sooooooo"On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
get it welded.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
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Lakewood said:
get it welded.
Care to elaborate? Why not solder? I could do it myself and would be a nice DIY project that I can say I did myself."On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants -
Just get it welded. If you've got a guy who gives you prices like that and at least kinda knows what he's doing, just get it welded.
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C_B said:Lakewood said:
get it welded.
Care to elaborate? Why not solder? I could do it myself and would be a nice DIY project that I can say I did myself.
bonding stainless steel with any sort of brazing or soldering is an exercise in futility. This is especially true when you are talking about a very small interfaces like a thin walled vessel penetration. Welding is really the only way to get a strong permanent bond.The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny