Can I make an ESB, Stout/porter thats good for the summer, or good amber ale with this?
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    So I'd really like to make a stout or porter thatd be good for spring or summer. I've never had an ESB though so I might like that too. I'm really open to the best suggestions of a recipe with this. I just don't want to make another IPA just yet. I have 3 in the fermenter and I'm the only person that drinks them. (I know... why is this a problem?)

    HOP AA%
    columbus 12.8
    Magnum 11.6
    Cascade 6.6
    willamette 6
    Tettnanger 4
    Magnum 11.6
    cascade leaf 8.8
    crystal leaf 3.3

    Galena 13.2
    Nuggett 12.4
    Colombus 13.3
    Summit 15.5
    Warrior 16
    Willamette 4


    My malts:

    Two Row
    Marris Otter
    Crystal 60
    Crystal 120
    Vienna
    Aromatic
    Victory
    Unmalted Wheat
    Chocolate
    Rye
    Crystal 10
    Special B

    The only yeast I will have is S 05 unless if I rack off of some WLP 002 or WLP 001. WLP 002 is the best option for another beer though.

    Thanks
    Fly.
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    Fly, here is my George Washington Porter. I love this beer any time of year and it looks like you have most of the ingredients already.

    http://www.homebrewforums.net/discussion/86/george-washingtons-porter-all-grain-ag#Item_3

    You could definitely make a porter of some sorts out of what you have on hand.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    Definitely want to do a porter. Need some more help though. I can only use exactly what I have because I don't have a lhbs. Could you help me rework your recipe to work with what I have?
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    can I make a decent porter without black patent?
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    I think I can work wit what you have. I will take a look at it this afternoon. When I get back from activities.
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    Hey bud, try this:

    Might want to socialize the crystal I used. I'm not sure if it's too much? But I was trying to get your color.


    BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
    Recipe: FFW's Porter
    Brewer: George Washington
    Asst Brewer:
    Style: Robust Porter
    TYPE: All Grain
    Taste: (30.0)

    Recipe Specifications
    --------------------------
    Boil Size: 7.19 gal
    Post Boil Volume: 5.98 gal
    Batch Size (fermenter): 5.25 gal
    Bottling Volume: 5.25 gal
    Estimated OG: 1.062 SG
    Estimated Color: 33.1 SRM
    Estimated IBU: 49.5 IBUs
    Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
    Est Mash Efficiency: 82.4 %
    Boil Time: 60 Minutes

    Ingredients:
    ------------
    Amt Name Type # %/IBU
    8 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 71.4 %
    1 lbs 4.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 2 10.5 %
    9.6 oz Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 4 5.0 %
    8.0 oz Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 5 4.2 %
    12.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 3 6.3 %
    5.0 oz Molasses (80.0 SRM) Sugar 6 2.6 %
    1.00 oz Galena [12.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 7 41.2 IBUs
    0.75 oz Willamette [5.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 8 8.2 IBUs


    Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
    Total Grain Weight: 11 lbs 14.6 oz
    ----------------------------
    Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
    Mash In Add 15.50 qt of water at 162.9 F 152.0 F 60 min

    Sparge: Batch sparge with 2 steps (1.24gal, 3.72gal) of 168.0 F water
    Notes:
    ------


    Created with BeerSmith 2 - http://www.beersmith.com
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    thanks man. I'll try to point a few of the other tkt guys over to get their opinions on the crystal.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    I'm not opposed to toasting grains in the oven either.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    Or using coffee.
  • LothosLothos
    Posts: 2,146
    ok here's what i got through my program i added just a bit on that

    New Recipe
    12-B Robust Porter

    Size: 5.94 gal
    Efficiency: 82.4%
    Attenuation: 75.0%
    Calories: 209.84 kcal per 12.0 fl oz

    Original Gravity: 1.063 (1.048 - 1.065)
    Terminal Gravity: 1.016 (1.012 - 1.016)
    Color: 31.31 (22.0 - 35.0)
    Alcohol: 6.2% (4.8% - 6.5%)
    Bitterness: 47.6 (25.0 - 50.0)

    Ingredients:
    8.2 lb Maris Otter Pale
    2.0 lb Caramel Malt 120L
    0.5 oz Special B Malt
    1.2 lb Chocolate Malt
    20.96 oz Crystal 60
    6.0 oz Molasses
    1.0 oz Galena (13.0%) - added during boil, boiled 60 m
    0.75 oz Willamette (5.0%) - added during boil, boiled 20 m
    1.0 tsp Irish Moss - added during boil, boiled 15 m
    1.0 ea WYeast 1084 Irish Ale or WLP002

    how's that look
    Ain't that a Bitch
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    i'd definitely back down on the c120L and the C60L a bit. 2# is a bit much for my tastes. 1# of each is more than enough, i'd probably go for more like 3/4# of each. then up the base malt to compensate. if you're trying to get the color right, toast some of the chocolate malt to darken it up, then add it late in the mash, so you don't get too much flavor from it.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    i just saw you have some rye. i'd probably toast that up and add it. i've never used toasted rye, but it sounds good.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • LothosLothos
    Posts: 2,146
    NICE THANKS i just took what he had and tryed to up the color and % lol
    Ain't that a Bitch
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    Lothos said:

    NICE THANKS i just took what he had and tryed to up the color and % lol



    i always use the darker malts to adjust for color, and base malt to adjust for abv. other wise you can end up with a syrupy sweet beer. :-&
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    FromZwolle said:

    Lothos said:

    NICE THANKS i just took what he had and tryed to up the color and % lol



    i always use the darker malts to adjust for color, and base malt to adjust for abv. other wise you can end up with a syrupy sweet beer. :-&


    How about this:

    Ingredients:
    ------------
    Amt Name Type # %/IBU
    8 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 69.9 %
    8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 5 4.1 %
    9.6 oz Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 4 4.9 %
    8.0 oz Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 6 4.1 %
    12.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 3 6.2 %
    5.0 oz Molasses (80.0 SRM) Sugar 7 2.5 %
    1.00 oz Galena [12.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 41.1 IBUs
    0.75 oz Willamette [5.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 9 8.2 IBUs
    1 lbs Rye Malt (4.7 SRM) Grain 2 8.2 %
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    that sounds pretty darn good.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    FromZwolle said:

    that sounds pretty darn good.



    The crystal 120 and 60 gives it some color but I think the rye will help dry it out a bit. That's probably not the right terminology but its that flavor the rye gives it that should balance out the sweetness.
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    jlw said:

    FromZwolle said:

    that sounds pretty darn good.



    The crystal 120 and 60 gives it some color but I think the rye will help dry it out a bit. That's probably not the right terminology but its that flavor the rye gives it that should balance out the sweetness.


    yep. perceived dryness. i like rye.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • LothosLothos
    Posts: 2,146
    nice
    Ain't that a Bitch
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    FromZwolle said:

    jlw said:

    FromZwolle said:

    that sounds pretty darn good.



    The crystal 120 and 60 gives it some color but I think the rye will help dry it out a bit. That's probably not the right terminology but its that flavor the rye gives it that should balance out the sweetness.


    yep. perceived dryness. i like rye.


    Its flaked rye if that makes a difference. I think I should have bought more rye. LOL. I got 5lbs and I want to do a rye IPA as well. Definately gonna use it in the porter though.
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    flyfisherwes said:

    FromZwolle said:

    jlw said:

    FromZwolle said:

    that sounds pretty darn good.



    The crystal 120 and 60 gives it some color but I think the rye will help dry it out a bit. That's probably not the right terminology but its that flavor the rye gives it that should balance out the sweetness.


    yep. perceived dryness. i like rye.


    Its flaked rye if that makes a difference. I think I should have bought more rye. LOL. I got 5lbs and I want to do a rye IPA as well. Definately gonna use it in the porter though.


    You don't need a ton of rye for a rye ipa so you should be good.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    jlw said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    FromZwolle said:

    jlw said:

    FromZwolle said:

    that sounds pretty darn good.



    The crystal 120 and 60 gives it some color but I think the rye will help dry it out a bit. That's probably not the right terminology but its that flavor the rye gives it that should balance out the sweetness.


    yep. perceived dryness. i like rye.


    Its flaked rye if that makes a difference. I think I should have bought more rye. LOL. I got 5lbs and I want to do a rye IPA as well. Definately gonna use it in the porter though.


    You don't need a ton of rye for a rye ipa so you should be good.


    sweet (or should I say dry) haha. Thanks.

    So I should do this right?

    jlw said:





    Ingredients:
    ------------
    Amt Name Type # %/IBU
    8 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 69.9 %
    8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 5 4.1 %
    9.6 oz Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 4 4.9 %
    8.0 oz Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 6 4.1 %
    12.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 3 6.2 %
    5.0 oz Molasses (80.0 SRM) Sugar 7 2.5 %
    1.00 oz Galena [12.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 41.1 IBUs
    0.75 oz Willamette [5.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 9 8.2 IBUs
    1 lbs Rye Malt (4.7 SRM) Grain 2 8.2 %




    I've been using an excell spreadsheet to convert all recipes to fit my biab system. I input a gravity and desired beer length and it tells me how much grain I need total then splits it all up for me when I put in the original recipe. It won't account for the molasses in the gravity so how much about how much grain in a mash would equate to 5oz molasses? That way I can just put it in as a grain and go from there so I hit my gravities correctly. I guess its really not much so I could just put the rest of the recipe in and add the 5oz. But it would be helpful to know ballpark how much its gonna raise my og. I've been ending up with about 22-23 L at the end of a boil to get 19 L of beer at bottling.

    If this looks good, should I still toast some of the chocolate malt? or some of the base malt? How much, what temp, and how long?

    Also what temp should I mash at and how long? I don't have iodine for that iodine test so I've just been doing either what the recipe says or a 90 min mash to be safe.

    I'm such a noob.
    Thanks for all the help fellas.
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    i would toast some of the chocolate malt at 300F for about 30 minutes, stirring often. stop when it just begins to smoke a little. you don't want charcoal, just a deep toasting. some folks say to leave it in a bag for a week or two to let the flavor mellow, but i've had no problems using it right away.

    for a porter, i like to mash at 154 or 156. just enough body to back up the roasty, deep flavors.

    you should get some iodophor. they sell it at just about every big grocery store, chain pharmacy, and lhbs. it's about $3 for a 9 oz bottle. you can use it to sanitize and for starch conversion tests. it's a really handy tool to have around. without it, though, i would just go for a 75 min mash. 90 is overkill and likely to dry the beer out more than you intend to. mashing beyond the full starch conversion is tantamount to mashing lower.

    so if you mashed for an extra 30 minutes beyond full conversion, the enzymes keep breaking things down. the long chain dextrines that you created start to get chopped into shorter, more fermentable chains, giving you a wort that is more fermentable, as if you had mashed several degrees lower.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    it's always a good plan to stop the mash when you have conversion. that way you have better control over how the final beer will turn out. especially if you plan on repeating a recipe.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    Thanks FZ
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    For what its worth my Rye IPA only has about 1.5 lbs of rye.
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    flyfisherwes said:

    Thanks FZ



    you're welcome. :-c
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    jlw said:

    For what its worth my Rye IPA only has about 1.5 lbs of rye.



    i seem to recall seeing that 2# is the 'max' for a 5 lb recipe without it getting overly rye flavored.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    jlw said:

    For what its worth my Rye IPA only has about 1.5 lbs of rye.



    Thanks as well JLW.


    So was it settled upon whether or not I should toast some of the rye?
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    and how should I go about figuring in the mole asses for my excel spreadsheet?
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    like.... how many pounds of grain in the mash is equal to 5oz mole asses?
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    flyfisherwes said:

    and how should I go about figuring in the mole asses for my excel spreadsheet?



    Not sure I can answer that. For my porter the molases goes in the wort in the last 10 minutes or so.
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    I just deleted it our of my recipe and the OG went from 1.062 to 1.060 for what thats worth
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    jlw said:

    I just deleted it our of my recipe and the OG went from 1.062 to 1.060 for what thats worth



    Thanks. Thats what I needed. I'll just put the rest of the recipe in and put 1.06 in the spreadsheet then figure on getting 1.062 at the end.

    jlw said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    and how should I go about figuring in the mole asses for my excel spreadsheet?



    Not sure I can answer that. For my porter the molases goes in the wort in the last 10 minutes or so.


    This too, how long should I boil total and when should the mole asses go in? 10-20 min seems reasonable to me from doing extracts.

  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    flyfisherwes said:

    jlw said:

    I just deleted it our of my recipe and the OG went from 1.062 to 1.060 for what thats worth



    Thanks. Thats what I needed. I'll just put the rest of the recipe in and put 1.06 in the spreadsheet then figure on getting 1.062 at the end.

    jlw said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    and how should I go about figuring in the mole asses for my excel spreadsheet?



    Not sure I can answer that. For my porter the molases goes in the wort in the last 10 minutes or so.


    This too, how long should I boil total and when should the mole asses go in? 10-20 min seems reasonable to me from doing extracts.



    60 min boil and yeah drop the molasses in the last 10 min.
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    jlw said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    This too, how long should I boil total and when should the mole asses go in? 10-20 min seems reasonable to me from doing extracts.



    60 min boil and yeah drop the molasses in the last 10 min.


    make sure to take a pint or so of boiling wort, mix the molasses into this, then pour that into the boil kettle. otherwise, the syrupy molasses will sink to the bottom and get scorched.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    god I can't wait to drink this. I haven't made any porters yet and I really don't get the chance to drink them much.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    I'm hoping to have a few different beers to take to my graduation in May.
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    i try to brew something light and something dark, then something in the middle. that way i usually have a good variety of beers ready.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    @JLW and @FromZwolle I am going to make this... well i guess its today now. I made a magic hat number 9 kinda thing a week ago that should be ready for secondary now. I used wlp002. Should I just rack this porter onto that yeast cake or use safale 05?

    By the way I had some good ole home made molasses at the house.

    I could also rack onto some wlp 001 that I made a relatively large IPA with but I doubt thats a good idea.
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    I have never racked directly onto a yeast cake and I know a lot of people do this with great success. The only word of caution is I have read and been told its best to not re-use the yeast cake from a high OG beer.
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    flyfisherwes said:

    @JLW and @FromZwolle I am going to make this... well i guess its today now. I made a magic hat number 9 kinda thing a week ago that should be ready for secondary now. I used wlp002. Should I just rack this porter onto that yeast cake or use safale 05?

    By the way I had some good ole home made molasses at the house.



    use the s05.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    flyfisherwes said:

    So I'd really like to make a stout or porter thatd be good for spring or summer. I've never had an ESB though so I might like that too. I'm really open to the best suggestions of a recipe with this. I just don't want to make another IPA just yet. I have 3 in the fermenter and I'm the only person that drinks them. (I know... why is this a problem?)

    HOP AA%
    columbus 12.8
    Magnum 11.6
    Cascade 6.6
    willamette 6
    Tettnanger 4
    Magnum 11.6
    cascade leaf 8.8
    crystal leaf 3.3

    Galena 13.2
    Nuggett 12.4
    Colombus 13.3
    Summit 15.5
    Warrior 16
    Willamette 4


    My malts:

    Two Row
    Marris Otter
    Crystal 60
    Crystal 120
    Vienna
    Aromatic
    Victory
    Unmalted Wheat
    Chocolate
    Rye
    Crystal 10
    Special B

    The only yeast I will have is S 05 unless if I rack off of some WLP 002 or WLP 001. WLP 002 is the best option for another beer though.

    Thanks
    Fly.



    I'll probably brew again tomorrow. I'd really like to use up that WLP002 cake from that 1.05 beer. Any suggestions with those ingreients? I really don't know what style to go with. So any suggestions are very welcome and appreciated.
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    No reason you can't do a pale ale. I for one can;t have to many different APA and IPA's. With the crystal and the chocolate and rye you could even brew up a hopped up black ale.

    Here is the recipe I use. You could adjust from the base.

    http://www.homebrewforums.net/discussion/54/black-imperial-indian-pale-ale-ag#Item_1

  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    I know you have a light IPA you could go the other direction and make a maltier IPA along the lines of SN's Torpedo Double IPA.

    I used the base grains and all columbus hops for an ipa once.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    jlw said:

    No reason you can't do a pale ale. I for one can;t have to many different APA and IPA's. With the crystal and the chocolate and rye you could even brew up a hopped up black ale.

    Here is the recipe I use. You could adjust from the base.

    http://www.homebrewforums.net/discussion/54/black-imperial-indian-pale-ale-ag#Item_1



    That looks like it might be a better candidate for S05 as well. Is it? I just figured out I'm going to have 2 open fermenters though even after I brew this porter. I have two burners and two kettles as well so I'm going to brew 2 at the same time.

    I like this black ale idea. But what could I do with the wlp002 english ale yeast?
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    jlw said:

    I know you have a light IPA you could go the other direction and make a maltier IPA along the lines of SN's Torpedo Double IPA.

    I used the base grains and all columbus hops for an ipa once.



    I have that dry IPA that should be ready for secondary this wednesday. But I also have a nice double IPA in the fermenter that is going to be dry hopped prolly wednesday. And another mid range IPA (1.072OG 1.017FG) that I'm going to bottle on wednesday. I really like IPAs but I want to do some other stuff. And I want to use that english ale cake because its only been used once for that magic hat clone.
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    flyfisherwes said:

    jlw said:

    No reason you can't do a pale ale. I for one can;t have to many different APA and IPA's. With the crystal and the chocolate and rye you could even brew up a hopped up black ale.

    Here is the recipe I use. You could adjust from the base.

    http://www.homebrewforums.net/discussion/54/black-imperial-indian-pale-ale-ag#Item_1



    That looks like it might be a better candidate for S05 as well. Is it? I just figured out I'm going to have 2 open fermenters though even after I brew this porter. I have two burners and two kettles as well so I'm going to brew 2 at the same time.

    I like this black ale idea. But what could I do with the wlp002 english ale yeast?


    wlp002 is a pretty common ale yeast you could use for an ipa, apa, that black ale, porters, stouts, esb's you name you can brew with that yeast. My RIS is being fermented with 002.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    jlw said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    jlw said:

    No reason you can't do a pale ale. I for one can;t have to many different APA and IPA's. With the crystal and the chocolate and rye you could even brew up a hopped up black ale.

    Here is the recipe I use. You could adjust from the base.

    http://www.homebrewforums.net/discussion/54/black-imperial-indian-pale-ale-ag#Item_1



    That looks like it might be a better candidate for S05 as well. Is it? I just figured out I'm going to have 2 open fermenters though even after I brew this porter. I have two burners and two kettles as well so I'm going to brew 2 at the same time.

    I like this black ale idea. But what could I do with the wlp002 english ale yeast?


    wlp002 is a pretty common ale yeast you could use for an ipa, apa, that black ale, porters, stouts, esb's you name you can brew with that yeast. My RIS is being fermented with 002.


    I think I'd like to do another porter or stout.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    I don't know if thats possible with what I have though. Do I just sub in chocolate for the carafa in that recipe?
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    flyfisherwes said:

    I don't know if thats possible with what I have though. Do I just sub in chocolate for the carafa in that recipe?



    I think you could do that. Let me check though.
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    Yep, just sub your chocolate malt for the carafa. If you try that black ale you will be surprised by the result. It looks like a porter or a stout and tatstes like an IPA. Technically it is a Black IPA but sometimes people get bent out of joint when you call it a black ipa.

    Its absolutely one of my favorite beers.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    good deal. quick question though. I have 3 1oz packs of galena. I have an open pound pack of magnum. In that porter will it make any significant difference if i used the 1 oz of galena and got the rest of the 40 IBUs with magnum? it should only be about .3oz.

    Reason Im asking is I have a bigger fermenter that Im gonna go ahead and do like 6.3 gallons in.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    u know so i dont open and use a partial pack
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    flyfisherwes said:

    good deal. quick question though. I have 3 1oz packs of galena. I have an open pound pack of magnum. In that porter will it make any significant difference if i used the 1 oz of galena and got the rest of the 40 IBUs with magnum? it should only be about .3oz.

    Reason Im asking is I have a bigger fermenter that Im gonna go ahead and do like 6.3 gallons in.



    It should be ok. Its brewing. Lot's of art.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    Well I'm off to start the mash.
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    flyfisherwes said:

    jlw said:

    No reason you can't do a pale ale. I for one can;t have to many different APA and IPA's. With the crystal and the chocolate and rye you could even brew up a hopped up black ale.

    Here is the recipe I use. You could adjust from the base.

    http://www.homebrewforums.net/discussion/54/black-imperial-indian-pale-ale-ag#Item_1



    That looks like it might be a better candidate for S05 as well. Is it? I just figured out I'm going to have 2 open fermenters though even after I brew this porter. I have two burners and two kettles as well so I'm going to brew 2 at the same time.

    I like this black ale idea. But what could I do with the wlp002 english ale yeast?


    esb, or dark english ale, like hobgoblin.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    FromZwolle said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    jlw said:

    No reason you can't do a pale ale. I for one can;t have to many different APA and IPA's. With the crystal and the chocolate and rye you could even brew up a hopped up black ale.

    Here is the recipe I use. You could adjust from the base.

    http://www.homebrewforums.net/discussion/54/black-imperial-indian-pale-ale-ag#Item_1



    That looks like it might be a better candidate for S05 as well. Is it? I just figured out I'm going to have 2 open fermenters though even after I brew this porter. I have two burners and two kettles as well so I'm going to brew 2 at the same time.

    I like this black ale idea. But what could I do with the wlp002 english ale yeast?


    esb, or dark english ale, like hobgoblin.


    Ive never had either type of beer. I feel like the esb would be ok. I have a buddy that wants to make one but I've never had it myself. I don't have a large variety of beers around here to try. Which one would be more suited to the spring/summer months?

  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    On another note the porter is in the fermenter. I'm going to brew 2 beers on Wednesday. Simultaneously with help. Beauty of BIAB.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    Also I hit the 1.062 OG number. I'm really liking my system. I calculated for 78%. I tend to lose a lot to trub in the kettle. Like a gallon or so. How do I improve this?
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    Try the ESB. You might be able to find Redhook ESB its pretty common. And an ESb is a good spring beer.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    jlw said:

    Try the ESB. You might be able to find Redhook ESB its pretty common. And an ESb is a good spring beer.



    Thanks. Thats what my buddy was drinking. Redhook. I looked today at kroger and they didn't have it so I got some Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Barleywine.... I think it might need to age as I drank one and it was good but just seems green. I don't guess they age them at the brewery? It says 2012 on the cap. I got some Yuengling porter because I had a craving for porter after making this one and yuengling is the only one they had.

    I type like I talk....

    Should I start a new thread for an ESB design?
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    flyfisherwes said:

    jlw said:

    Try the ESB. You might be able to find Redhook ESB its pretty common. And an ESb is a good spring beer.



    Thanks. Thats what my buddy was drinking. Redhook. I looked today at kroger and they didn't have it so I got some Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Barleywine.... I think it might need to age as I drank one and it was good but just seems green. I don't guess they age them at the brewery? It says 2012 on the cap. I got some Yuengling porter because I had a craving for porter after making this one and yuengling is the only one they had.

    I type like I talk....

    Should I start a new thread for an ESB design?

    I would start a new thread. Simply becuase its more content for the site.
  • C_BC_B
    Posts: 88,450
    flyfisherwes said:

    jlw said:

    Try the ESB. You might be able to find Redhook ESB its pretty common. And an ESb is a good spring beer.



    Thanks. Thats what my buddy was drinking. Redhook. I looked today at kroger and they didn't have it so I got some Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Barleywine.... I think it might need to age as I drank one and it was good but just seems green. I don't guess they age them at the brewery? It says 2012 on the cap. I got some Yuengling porter because I had a craving for porter after making this one and yuengling is the only one they had.

    I type like I talk....

    Should I start a new thread for an ESB design?

    yes
    "On it. I hate software." ~Cpt Snarklepants
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053


    jlw said:





    Ingredients:
    ------------
    Amt Name Type # %/IBU
    8 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 69.9 %
    8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 5 4.1 %
    9.6 oz Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 4 4.9 %
    8.0 oz Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 6 4.1 %
    12.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 3 6.2 %
    5.0 oz Molasses (80.0 SRM) Sugar 7 2.5 %
    1.00 oz Galena [12.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 41.1 IBUs
    0.75 oz Willamette [5.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 9 8.2 IBUs
    1 lbs Rye Malt (4.7 SRM) Grain 2 8.2 %




    I've been using an excell spreadsheet to convert all recipes to fit my biab system. I input a gravity and desired beer length and it tells me how much grain I need total then splits it all up for me when I put in the original recipe. It won't account for the molasses in the gravity so how much about how much grain in a mash would equate to 5oz molasses? That way I can just put it in as a grain and go from there so I hit my gravities correctly. I guess its really not much so I could just put the rest of the recipe in and add the 5oz. But it would be helpful to know ballpark how much its gonna raise my og. I've been ending up with about 22-23 L at the end of a boil to get 19 L of beer at bottling.

    If this looks good, should I still toast some of the chocolate malt? or some of the base malt? How much, what temp, and how long?

    Also what temp should I mash at and how long? I don't have iodine for that iodine test so I've just been doing either what the recipe says or a 90 min mash to be safe.

    I'm such a noob.
    Thanks for all the help fellas.


    I brewed this on March 12th. Is it time to bottle or should I bulk age it in a carboy for a whil?
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    I have not 2*. I just primary if I have enough fermenters.
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,601
    flyfisherwes said:



    jlw said:





    Ingredients:
    ------------
    Amt Name Type # %/IBU
    8 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 69.9 %
    8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 5 4.1 %
    9.6 oz Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 4 4.9 %
    8.0 oz Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 6 4.1 %
    12.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 3 6.2 %
    5.0 oz Molasses (80.0 SRM) Sugar 7 2.5 %
    1.00 oz Galena [12.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 41.1 IBUs
    0.75 oz Willamette [5.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 9 8.2 IBUs
    1 lbs Rye Malt (4.7 SRM) Grain 2 8.2 %




    I've been using an excell spreadsheet to convert all recipes to fit my biab system. I input a gravity and desired beer length and it tells me how much grain I need total then splits it all up for me when I put in the original recipe. It won't account for the molasses in the gravity so how much about how much grain in a mash would equate to 5oz molasses? That way I can just put it in as a grain and go from there so I hit my gravities correctly. I guess its really not much so I could just put the rest of the recipe in and add the 5oz. But it would be helpful to know ballpark how much its gonna raise my og. I've been ending up with about 22-23 L at the end of a boil to get 19 L of beer at bottling.

    If this looks good, should I still toast some of the chocolate malt? or some of the base malt? How much, what temp, and how long?

    Also what temp should I mash at and how long? I don't have iodine for that iodine test so I've just been doing either what the recipe says or a 90 min mash to be safe.

    I'm such a noob.
    Thanks for all the help fellas.


    I brewed this on March 12th. Is it time to bottle or should I bulk age it in a carboy for a whil?

    never hurts to bulk age. mostly depends on what you are trying to accomplish.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,601
    flyfisherwes said:

    I have not 2*. I just primary if I have enough fermenters.



    most people around here do primary only, except when we really need a secondary.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    I only use secondary for dry hop or long bulk age. I have three in bulk age right now. Saison, Wee heavy and just moved a RIS.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    I'd really like to start drinking it pretty soon. haha. Should I go ahead and bottle it or just leave it in primary a while longer?

    The stout I have I plan to bulk age for a while. I don't really know what bulk aging acomplishes.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    To bottle? or to wait?
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    opinions? It's my first porter. I dunno how long they take.
  • LothosLothos
    Posts: 2,146
    id say 3 months on the porter in an oak barrel or on oak chips do it
    Ain't that a Bitch
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    Lothos said:

    id say 3 months on the porter in an oak barrel or on oak chips do it




    As good as that sounds. I really don't want to wait that long. I either have to bottle it or secondary it now. I need the fermenter for a beer thats cooling down.
  • LothosLothos
    Posts: 2,146
    flyfisherwes said:

    Lothos said:

    id say 3 months on the porter in an oak barrel or on oak chips do it




    As good as that sounds. I really don't want to wait that long. I either have to bottle it or secondary it now. I need the fermenter for a beer thats cooling down.


    secondary it
    Ain't that a Bitch
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,601
    flyfisherwes said:

    Lothos said:

    id say 3 months on the porter in an oak barrel or on oak chips do it




    As good as that sounds. I really don't want to wait that long. I either have to bottle it or secondary it now. I need the fermenter for a beer thats cooling down.


    I propose this:

    you can throw half in a secondary with some oak chips
    put a gallon in a secondary jug with no oak.
    bottle the remainder.

    That way, as a novice brewer you can see the effects of each. You'll learn a lot and you can write all about it.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • LothosLothos
    Posts: 2,146
    Lakewood said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    Lothos said:

    id say 3 months on the porter in an oak barrel or on oak chips do it




    As good as that sounds. I really don't want to wait that long. I either have to bottle it or secondary it now. I need the fermenter for a beer thats cooling down.


    I propose this:

    you can throw half in a secondary with some oak chips
    put a gallon in a secondary jug with no oak.
    bottle the remainder.

    That way, as a novice brewer you can see the effects of each. You'll learn a lot and you can write all about it.


    good choice
    Ain't that a Bitch
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    Lakewood said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    Lothos said:

    id say 3 months on the porter in an oak barrel or on oak chips do it




    As good as that sounds. I really don't want to wait that long. I either have to bottle it or secondary it now. I need the fermenter for a beer thats cooling down.


    I propose this:

    you can throw half in a secondary with some oak chips
    put a gallon in a secondary jug with no oak.
    bottle the remainder.

    That way, as a novice brewer you can see the effects of each. You'll learn a lot and you can write all about it.


    Not enough vessels. :(

  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,601
    flyfisherwes said:

    Lakewood said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    Lothos said:

    id say 3 months on the porter in an oak barrel or on oak chips do it




    As good as that sounds. I really don't want to wait that long. I either have to bottle it or secondary it now. I need the fermenter for a beer thats cooling down.


    I propose this:

    you can throw half in a secondary with some oak chips
    put a gallon in a secondary jug with no oak.
    bottle the remainder.

    That way, as a novice brewer you can see the effects of each. You'll learn a lot and you can write all about it.


    Not enough vessels. :(



    you can pick up the little 1 gal jobbies for a couple bucks at the LHBS. If you put it the secondary today you can split it up tomorrow.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    Lakewood said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    Lakewood said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    Lothos said:

    id say 3 months on the porter in an oak barrel or on oak chips do it




    As good as that sounds. I really don't want to wait that long. I either have to bottle it or secondary it now. I need the fermenter for a beer thats cooling down.


    I propose this:

    you can throw half in a secondary with some oak chips
    put a gallon in a secondary jug with no oak.
    bottle the remainder.

    That way, as a novice brewer you can see the effects of each. You'll learn a lot and you can write all about it.


    Not enough vessels. :(



    you can pick up the little 1 gal jobbies for a couple bucks at the LHBS. If you put it the secondary today you can split it up tomorrow.


    or start drinking jug wine. @-)
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,601
    FromZwolle said:

    Lakewood said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    Lakewood said:

    flyfisherwes said:

    Lothos said:

    id say 3 months on the porter in an oak barrel or on oak chips do it




    As good as that sounds. I really don't want to wait that long. I either have to bottle it or secondary it now. I need the fermenter for a beer thats cooling down.


    I propose this:

    you can throw half in a secondary with some oak chips
    put a gallon in a secondary jug with no oak.
    bottle the remainder.

    That way, as a novice brewer you can see the effects of each. You'll learn a lot and you can write all about it.


    Not enough vessels. :(



    you can pick up the little 1 gal jobbies for a couple bucks at the LHBS. If you put it the secondary today you can split it up tomorrow.


    or start drinking jug wine. @-)


    even better.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    Well, I guess bottle it if you need it that bad. I would really consider letting it bottle age though.
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,601
    Patience yields better beer.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    Lakewood said:

    Patience yields better beer.



    This is the gospel truth
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    I've noticed beer I leave in bottles for a while is really way way better. I ended up not bottling it. I just left it in primary though. when would be a good time for bottling? Next weekend seems like it could be promising. I have that stout that I'm going to let go for a while in the carboy secondary.

    Also, I like the wine jug idea. I don't have a LHBS.
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,601
    flyfisherwes said:

    I don't have a LHBS.



    Oh you poor, poor man
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    flyfisherwes said:

    I've noticed beer I leave in bottles for a while is really way way better. I ended up not bottling it. I just left it in primary though. when would be a good time for bottling? Next weekend seems like it could be promising. I have that stout that I'm going to let go for a while in the carboy secondary.

    Also, I like the wine jug idea. I don't have a LHBS.



    The longer you can leave it in bulk storage the better it will get. i also understand you have a bit of limitation due to lack of storage vessels. I would say you can bottle next weekend and then let it age in bottles for a while.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    I like to let it age in bottles anyway. It seems like when I add the priming sugar my beer gets cloudy and stays that way for a good long time. A couple months in the bottle at low temps though and its good stuff.
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    flyfisherwes said:

    I like to let it age in bottles anyway. It seems like when I add the priming sugar my beer gets cloudy and stays that way for a good long time. A couple months in the bottle at low temps though and its good stuff.



    Sounds a little like chill haze. Yeah let those suckers chill in the fridge. And they will clear up.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    How do you stop chill haze?
  • jlwjlw
    Posts: 16,454
    flyfisherwes said:

    How do you stop chill haze?



    I'm not sure but I don't worry about it. Doesn't seem to impact the taste so it doesn't. Other me much.
  • FuzzyFuzzy
    Posts: 49,656
    flyfisherwes said:

    How do you stop chill haze?



    In the mash. make sure you have full and complete conversion via starch test. A good hot break and a quick chill of the wort also help.
    The pinnacle of lame and awesome in one singular moment. -Lake
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    whats a hot break?
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    I can usually chill beer that hasnt carbed up with priming sugar without getting haze.
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    flyfisherwes said:

    whats a hot break?



    and how do you have a good one?
  • ThymThym
    Posts: 121,601
    flyfisherwes said:

    whats a hot break?



    hot break material is the coagulated proteins you see clumped up and floating around in the wort during the boil.

    It also refers to the point in the boiling process where you go from boil-over producing foam to a solid rolling boil with no foam production. (the point at which the foam breaks and you can see the wort.)

    A good hot break is one in which you reach a solid rolling boil quickly and the coagulated proteins maintain long chains and thus can settle out quickly and efficiently.
    The only thing between me and a train wreck is blind luck..... - Kenny
  • flyfisherwesflyfisherwes
    Posts: 1,053
    thanks!
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